I just finished rebuilding my 2004r (BQ code) a couple weeks ago and installed it in my Regal last week. After putting my tranny fluid in I found it was a cople quarts short still so I bought another gallon and topped it off today. During the test drive the tranny wouldn't shift out of first until 3800 rpms. I kept pulling over and readjusting the kick down cable but it didn't change the shifting. I'm not even sure it's shifting in to second, it might be going straight to third. All I really replaced during the rebuild was the over run clutch, steel plates, friction plates and some worn seals. I put it back together the same way I took it apart. All of the friction plates were soaked in ATF as well. Other than stock, it has a B&M shift improver kit. The torque converter is from the TH200C that was in there before. Any ideas where to start troubleshooting? Thanks,
Mark, you could be right, it might be skipping 2nd gear all together. You need to manually shift, up and down and see if second is there. SOme 200-4r's have a spot in the case that look like a ball goes in, but if you put a ball there, you will have no second gear. The GN tranny cases don't have this spot. The T.V. cable is not just a downshift cable. Jim Burek
Mark, Have you used a pressure gauge to setup the TV cable (it's really not just a kickdown)? If not, you probably should; the trans won't live long if the TV isn't adjusted properly. You should be able to get a 300psi gauge for $30 or so. It's a pretty easy setup and test. I can forward a procedure (from Bowtie) if you need it. And your trans is up to operating temp (like a few trips around the block), at idle, and the car level when you check the fluid level? Let it sit and idle for 5-10 minutes before you check it.
This is an 85 GN tranny and I put the check balls exactly where the Haynes manual told me to. I haven't checked it with a pressure gauge yet. What I did do is put it up on Jack stands in gear, set the TV cable in position and pushed the throttle. I kept making slight adjustments to the TV cable from all the way out to all the way in and it made no difference in when the tranny shifted.
Read all of this 1st http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.html It is a great primer on the TV cable.
modulator line? i dont consider myself a trans expert by any means but i always felt my car shifted late, and after i replaced the kickdown with the B&M universal one, it was even worse! :rant: :af: then i played around with the vacuum line from the modulator(it was hooked up to a manifold source routed to 3 other things) so i hooked it up by itself to a manifold port on the back of my carb and ever since, its shiftin alot earlier, sooo smooth :laugh: . now it actually kicks down when i get at the pedal, something it never did before. its a 350 though, i dont know how much different it would act from a 2004r. o No: Vic
Well, there's no vacuum modulator on a 2004r. I think I just want to go to a TH350 and forget this whole overdrive thing. I was going to make this my daily driver but maybe now I have a daily driver beater Nissan truck so maybe I'll focus on street/strip for the Regal...
Hey I haven't been able to get back to the Regal since I first posted but I was just thinking... I packed vaseline in the holes where the check balls go to hold them in. How long does it usually take for the vaseline to melt away? Wouldn't that keep it from shifting?
As soon as some heat got to it, doesn't take much Not very likely. My first thought would be sticking valves in the valve body. How were the rest of the shifts.
2nd and 4th gear work off the band. I would look in that area for a bad seal, band pin too short, servo assembled incorrectly, burnt band, etc.
That could be it. When I put the servo back in, I didn't "fully understand" how the book was telling me to do it. I probably got it in wrong.
Actually, Dwayne is thinking of how a 700R4 functions. The 2004R servo applies the band for 2nd only & 4th gear works off a set of clutches; the large diameter ones in the front of the transmission. I would suspect that, in addition to a servo installation error, you may have a governor pressure problem caused by things like bad teflon ring on governor shaft, bad governor cover gasket, problem with valve body gaskets, etc. That could account for the late shifting as well as no OD.
Like I've said before.... I lose a little more memory with every strand of hair that falls out each day :ball:
I'm not sure if there is no OD. I never got it going fast enough. Since I rebuilt it, I replaced a bunch of seals and all the gaskets. When I put the servo in, I put a small screw driver in the fluid passage to line up the hole while putting the retaining ring on. I don't know what else I could have done to install it wrong.
Did the tranny shift properly before you went through it? Or, did you get a basket-case of junkyard tranny to work with? Second oil applies the only band in the 200-4r. Third oil works against second oil to disengage second band and apply direct clutch. Check your second servo on the side of the tranny. Maybe it's simply mis-assembled and not applying the band. Next simple thing would be to drop the v.b. Check the second accumulator for proper assembly and exercise the 1-2 shift valve in its bore to make sure it's not stuck from assembly dirt. Hopefully it's not a sub-assembly mis-assembly. I don't know what the shift kit has you change. Hope you find the trouble without a major teardown.
72 Skylark with rebuilt 200 - 4r torque question? I have a newly rebuilt stock 350 and replaced the TH 350 tranny. I am replacing with a rebuilt 2004r. I am trying to figure out what it came out of and also what stall for the torque converter. First, the HP I should be getting is b/w 300 and 350. So what stall for torque? I am trying to decide between 1200 or 1800. Next, is ID'ing the car this tranny came out of: Only numbers on it are 407 G and on the left side of the casing is 639224. No other identifiers on the tranny. Any one know what it came out of and if I should factor that in with what type of torque converter. Thanks for your help.
Did sharkmonkey ever say anything about 4th gear working or not. If it does not work too then band apply could be bad. If he does have 4th gear then valve body is probably the culprit. ou:
Another approach is to drop the valve body and find the 2nd gear band apply passage (in the case) and test using compressed air and see if the band applies. If not you have narrowed the cause down to band apply components, which would include 2nd gear accumulator.ray: When I rebuild transmissions I do the compressed air tests to see if all the major components are functioning properly before buttoning the trans up. :Brow:
