At all, i had a 2600 advertised stall in my 81 Century wagon, never really was happy with it and always felt like a stock converter. As it was apart for a few years, i ordered a 3200 stall from Monster before i put the car back together in this past October. I should mention i broke the driveshaft, which shattered the governor that was in it, so i ordered a Monte SS calibrated governor as they advertise shifts in gear at WOT around 5k..perfect for a Buick 350. Motor has a cam, compression, ran 14.50's years back but converter didn't impress me. The bottom line is even this converter feels like the stock stall speed, and even trying to manually shift holding it in first, pressure or ?over rides and still shifts into second when manually in first. Thats annoying, and the converter will not release to any advertised speed. Both unrelated i understand. So, go back to a stock/correct governor for the first gear issue? And, what impedes the converter from operating as it should? I mean i was hoping for a converter that hardly moved the car at all in gear at idle, like it's supposed to. 3.73 rear as well, not that its important here. Anyhow, any 200r4 knowledge out there from the GN/TType crowd would be appreciated.
Stall speed depends on a number of factors. Engine torque, car weight, and gearing to name a few. There is no such thing as a 3200 stall converter, or any other number. The same converter will stall at different speeds behind different engines in different cars. If someone sells you a converter without asking what it will be installed behind, or what car it's going in, don't expect it to be what you want. Jim Weise has a line of converters for the 2004R. He will want to know about every aspect of your build and your car. He will know exactly what you need. He will build it specifically for your car. https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/tsp-9-5-street-strip-converters-lifetime-warrantee.147066/ https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/updated-torque-converter-program.278923/
I appreciate what you say here Larry, and without sounding like a smart ass I know. The first one was from Trans Specialties in Aston PA, close to where I used to live , the second (which came from Monster ) yes, that was the “advertised” stall speed and knowing all combos yield differ r actual results. And yes went through tech with both companies before ordering and describing what I was looking for , that being a much looser converter and better drive ability at the stop light , and leaving it for that matter. It’s a good combo but there’s a problem , which is what I’m asking about here I’ll be more specific - shifting out of park to reverse or drive, there is no stall speed it only resembles a stock spec’s converter, on other words no rpm’s flare or torque is built like I’d want to see at all. That was with either converter after a rebuild It’s been in my car for 7 years, shifts hard 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 … but no stall speed at a stop foot on the brake to launch at all, spinning the rears at 1800rpm . It sucks . So, I applied 12v to the A pin and grounded D if there were an ECM in the car, which it doesn’t have nor has it ever had voltage at the TCC connector because neither of these are lock up converters anyway. No difference . I’m not sure where or what circuit should increase pressure to get the converter to work the way it should After it has moved perhaps through 2-3 gears and you get out of it, mash the throttle again then you will see stall speed flare up before torque is applied Just not from a stop - which again, sucks And the shifting out of first to second while first is manually selected I have down to a mismatched Governor .. Throttle valve cable is adjusted properly and all that … so it’s likely had this condition since the rebuild I just never gave it much thought as the car was a driver for a couple years , it was at the track and maybe it flared up a bit there on the bite of the track or maybe not … went 14.50’s even with the little 670 Holley it had then . Any advice appreciated or tell me to not type as much lol
The best way to make a 2004r behave is to take the trans out and toss it in the dumpster. Punch yourself in the dick 10x, burn a stack benjamins and then replace with a 4l80e and finally be happy.
Probably would stall higher if the engine made more torque. That’s why it’s important to contact JW and give home the specifics of you vehicle and he can make a custom converter for yin’s.
I would be making a call to these people if they are indeed close and asking them for recommendations on a restall. Not going to be free but it is their unit and if they are any good at all you should be able to get something out of it. Next thing to try if you were me is to go with a nissan core and a built unit for your specced build. This is what is in mine currently. Not cheap but I like it. Mine was done local to me but they do mail order stuff if you are so inclined. https://www.phoenixtrans.com/products/ptgm18-245/ Ask for Greg or Scottie if you call. Tell them Rich Bell sent ya. These guys are hot rodders and know Buicks too. And of course, as above Jim Wiese can get you what you need too.
Sounds like op wants a loose condition at idle, and no movement of car when brake is released. You only get that neutral, zero movement condition perfectly with 3 pedals. My JW drags my 1,100 neutral idle down to 750 in gear. Tight for my liking too.
The first person to understand what I’m saying without the sales pitch What I’m saying is exaggerated of course but it has zero flash in gear , of course and gear selected will drop rpm’s but it should flare up some and will vary even with the most moderate power in front of it So, if any builders have an idea it’s just conversation here
Lots of factors here... if your dropping more rpm from neutral to drive than you want, that can be more of an engine thing than the converter.. if your in the start of the advance curve at idle speed in park/neutral, then any drop from load is going to drop the rpm, which will drop the timing, which will drop the rpm ect ect.. YOU MUST be at base timing at your idle speed in park/Neutral.. in other words, check your timing in park, have an assistant then put the car in reverse and hold the brake.. the timing must be the same.. even a couple degrees will cause a bigger rpm drop than you want.. should drop about 100-200 rpm at most, but that will vary with how much cam/vacuum you have. This is so common that I bet if it we checked every modified GS in the garages of everyone on this site, I would wager that at least half to 2/3 of them have the curve starting too soon on the distributor, and they are not at base timing at idle in park.. in fact I can tell you that if you have the light silver springs that come in the re-curve kit installed, it's almost certain that you are not at base timing unless your idle speed is 800 or less in park.. this is super common, due the the misconception that everything runs better with "the advance all in by 2500" That's an old wives tale, and I have dyno pulls on several different combos that tell a different story. Anyone's car who does actually run better with the timing in that early, is more than likely just masking some other issue. because the motor IS NOT making more power. Next, to get an idea of your real stall speed, put the trans in second gear.. once it shifts, let it go a bit to pick up some road speed, and then floor the accelerator.. (it must stay in second gear) you will see the engine flash to whatever the converter is capable of. A good working combo does not "feel loose" at light throttle.. and should drop the rpm when you put it in gear.. loose, sloppy junk combos don't change the idle speed.. it should only stall when your applying serious throttle to it. JW
As someone who had 3 different 200-4Rs in a 72 Skylark, and dealt with annoying 700r4 issues in a Corvette. I feel that. Obviously people can make them work behind some hot setups, but I myself am done walking the razors edge. Future projects will be an ST400 with a G/V or 4l80e for me as well. The idle rpm drop vs actual converter stall speed makes sense to me. It sounds almost like the secondary air doors on a Q-jet. If you can get them to open just free revving the engine, the adjustment is too loose (or pull off is bad/missing). Sure sounds cool though.
I think the problem is when the centrifigal advance is adding to idle timing, not necessarily the amount of total ignition timing. So if you are just barely in the centrifigal advance curve in park and then you shift into drive, the normal 100-200rpm drop will be exaggerated since you are now below the point that centrifigal advance is added. Less timing, lower idle speed. Now your 800 or 900rpm idle in park drops to 600rpm or lower. If your ignition timing is locked out, it is the same no matter what the engine speed is and will not influence the rpm drop from park to drive. I think that is why Jim emphasised that timing in park must be the same as in drive/reverse, so that there is not an excessive rpm drop, which in this case, could feel like a converter that is too tight.
