231 to 350 swap (Help!)

Discussion in 'The "X" bodies' started by noraarm, Sep 29, 2010.

  1. TheSilverBuick

    TheSilverBuick In the Middle of No Where

    The Tach is simple. The no coil thing is misguided, there is a coil in the cap. If you read the top of your distributor cap were all the plugs are, there is one labelled "Tach". Purchase your tach of choice, set to 6-cyl on the tack, hook up to the wire the paper work with the tach says goes to the coil (or HEI) to the "Tach" port and your are good to go. Then switch the setting from 6-cyl to 8-cyl when you get a 350.

    My exhaust is just the Summit universal 2.5" dual exhaust kit. I "think" the mufflers are made by Flowmaster. I don't have an exhaust shop with in 185 miles of me, so I needed something pre-bent and bolt in =P It needs a little work, but has been functional for over a year.
     
  2. TheSilverBuick

    TheSilverBuick In the Middle of No Where


    The 700r4 requires an adapter plate to bolt to your engine. Not the hardest thing to do, but you'd need one to use that trans. I used one to bolt a 700r4 to a Pontiac engine several years ago.
     
  3. noraarm

    noraarm Well-Known Member

    im looking on amazon right now for tachs, im just so curious to see what im running at. Every car we ever owned my dad put flow master on lol our 90 mustang, 2001 lighting f150 and when my sisters Jeep Cherokee exhaust needed to be changed it even got flow master. i think i need to keep the tradition up haha.
     
  4. noraarm

    noraarm Well-Known Member

    would the block without the trans fit? and i could just sell the trans off or anything?
     
  5. noraarm

    noraarm Well-Known Member

    would the block without the trans fit? and i could just sell the trans off or anything?
     
  6. TheSilverBuick

    TheSilverBuick In the Middle of No Where

    Well there's something screwy with that ad. I'm 90% sure there were no 700r4's built in 1978, I think they debuted in 1981-82. And in '78 I think all Buick's that came with a V8 were either Chevy or Olds.

    (which brings up the point, ok, no Buick 350 came stock on your year, but it's the same as the '76-'77 that was an OEM option, so you are still good)
     
  7. noraarm

    noraarm Well-Known Member

    ok, so im looking for a 1977 or later buick 350 right? how old is to old?
     
  8. noraarm

    noraarm Well-Known Member

    Also, another dumb question!

    what about my power steering? can i take the bracket etc off mine and put it on a 350?
     
  9. TheSilverBuick

    TheSilverBuick In the Middle of No Where

    You are looking for a '77 and earlier Buick 350. Very few Buick 350's were made after '77 iirc. If it's advertised as a 350 and after '77, it is likely a Chevy or Oldsmobile.

    ALL your brackets will bolt right up exactly as they are on the 231. I wouldn't even disconnect the power steering hoses from the pump during the swap, just unbolt the bracket and lay to the side until you bolt them up to the 350.
     
  10. Hector

    Hector '79 Buick Limited

    Look for '77-'79 Electras and Park Avenues and '77-'78 Rivieras with an X in the vin number,those were equipped with the Buick 350.
     
  11. TheSilverBuick

    TheSilverBuick In the Middle of No Where

    Ok, that sounds reasonable. I just know about the x-body cars.
     
  12. noraarm

    noraarm Well-Known Member

    alright thank you guys a lot. some stuff came up with our house but i will defiantly be doing this as soon as i can
     
  13. bob k. mando

    bob k. mando Guest

    official GM VIN decoding shows the Buick 350 available into 1981, although the last year was likely simply rump production left over from 1980. for some reason they abandoned the "X" VIN engine code that had been used up to 1980 and used "B" for the last year.

    http://service.gm.com/dealerworld/vincards/pdf/vincard81.pdf
     
  14. roboteq-1@hotma

    roboteq-1@hotma 76 T Top

    If I were you, I'd see if there is a community college around with an auto program. You will be able to purchase most of the things you need before you start your project and the instructor will be able to guide you down the right path the first time. I understand that you want to do this yourself, but from the number of questions you have, jumping into an engine transplant for your first project is way too ambitious. Get a GOOD manual for your car ( check your local library- you probably cannot remove the books but you can make copies ) and study. Most of the folks on this site have been wrenching for years and could do this in their sleep, but it IS NOT a project for a beginner- you can easily do major damage to yourself and/or your vehicle. I dont want to discourage anyone from a new hobby, but like with anything, there is a learning curve. Get some schooling or find a mentor- you will be much better off and much happier in the long run. This site is a wealth of information, but do you really want someone to talk your dr. thru taking out your appendix on the fly??
    Good luck.
    Robert:beer
     
  15. TheSilverBuick

    TheSilverBuick In the Middle of No Where

    As long as he can remember how everything bolts on (just the reverse process of removal), the swap is cake. Remove the hood and grill on the car, have a good engine hoist, and the swap is just as simple as pulling the 231 out and putting another 231 in, just he'd be getting two more cylinders. Might take him twice as long, or four times as long as a seasoned pro, but I think it's way easier than actually tearing into an engine.

    To give you an idea, I can pull the engine and trans together in my car in 40 minutes working alone. That's including un-hooking all the EFI stuff.

    Just unbolt the trans cross member and shift linkage/speedo cable (be sure to support the trans until the pull), unbolt the exhaust manifold flanges (leaving the manifolds on the block), unplug all the wiring laying it off to the passengerside, don't forget the starter wiring, Remove hoses and radiator, unbolt power steering, lay off to the side, disconnect fuel line at the fuel pump, unbolt the two motor mount bolts, Pull engine and trans.

    Remove fan shroud extension, drop in Buick 350 with attached trans, reverse above procedures.
     
  16. jeff0547

    jeff0547 Beaters are Better

    Aaron, I couldn't agree with Robert more. There are several members in your area that may be willing to serve as mentors. I don't recall who they are, but Mark O'leary ( http://www.v8buick.com/member.php?u=10653) lives in Bainbridge Island and he may know some of their names. Good luck and remember what Robert said, this "IS NOT a project for a beginner- you can easily do major damage to yourself and/or your vehicle". :Dou:
     
  17. jeff0547

    jeff0547 Beaters are Better

     
  18. TheSilverBuick

    TheSilverBuick In the Middle of No Where

    In person help and guidance is always nice, and definately preferred, but some caution and patience will go a long way. That's why he's asking the questions now, to see what it involves. The rest is just wrench turning.

    The key to not doing major damage to yourself or car is keeping the engine and trans from swinging into anything while pulling and installing it. Be constantly aware of where things can fall (i.e. engine if hoist fails), and stay out of those places. Using a good set of jack stands while you're under the car and slow careful movements with the engine. Letting the hoist down easy is key. Practice over a tire on the floor if need be with the engine and tran's on the hoist. When pulling the engine you probably want a couple 2x4's stacked under the front tires to get it up a couple inches for the hoist's legs, much better than having the front of the car on jackstands.
     
  19. TheSilverBuick

    TheSilverBuick In the Middle of No Where

    Here is a post of mine from another thread. Your's will look like this only smaller :pp and have a bunch more room since you don't have A/C, no Evap box in the way or condesor to run the water pump through. Leave the cast manifolds and cross over pipe on, just unbolt the two bolts to the single exhaust. Bolt the cross over pipe back onto the 350 while it's out of the car.

    You can see the frame pads my motor mounts bolt to. Your's look similar (little taller and made of steel), but work the same, a single bolt just needs to be removed.

    As you are going up, just watch for the tail shaft of the transmission. The 231 probably won't have any issues on clearance, but you may have to raise up the front of the engine like I did to get the trans to clear. Mine is a little extreme because the internal linkage on the manual transmission hangs up in the trans tunnel and stuff, your's won't be that bad. I used a ratchet strap over the front of the hoist. An engine leveller is definately better, or if you have a friend or two to help, they just need to help guide the trans.

    You can use longer bolts in the intake with a chain to pull the 231, but with a 4bbl carb you can't beat one of those engine lift plates. Watch for the engine/trans wanting to swing as you go up, if you are going slow it's a non-issue to keep under control.

    **Oh, I did forget to mention** Remove the driveshaft, I recommend removing the yoke from the shaft afterwards and inserting it back into the trans to keep the fluid in the trans. Then make sure it doesn't get hung up on the trans tunnel. You can see how I did that in the last picture.

     
  20. noraarm

    noraarm Well-Known Member

    I got the ok from my mom to buy a 350, i just have to wait until we move which will be soon. i dont want to get stuck halfway through and then find out we are moving the next day plus i will have a garage not a car port. Is anyone local that i could meet up with when i find one to make sure its not a piece of junk?
     

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