Hi guys. Pulled the car out for the first time last weekend. Noticed burning oil smell. Turns out my intake manifold is puking oil from the front and the fan is blowing it everywhere. The engine builder did not use the rubber seals that come with the gasket, he used a bead of RTV, not sure what kind. Needless to say I need to pull the manifold and reseal. I remember the last time I did this on my old engine, swapping from two to four barrel I used a metal gasket from TA. I ended up getting coolant in my oil because I didn’t use any sealer on the coolant ports, I don’t want to make this mistake again. Can someone refresh my memory on what type of sealant to use, and exactly where to seal pleases? Also any advise on what gasket kit is best and…..I’m thinking I will use the rubber seals on the ends, with some Right Stuff on the corners, because last time I did I never had any oil leaks. I know some guys are against this and use RTV only.
Black gasket maker where, on the ends? What about the coolant passages? Should I use the the stock style metal gasket or the composite.
If your engine is stock and the heads or block have not been milled/decked, then the metal bathtub gasket with the front and rear rubber end seals is best. What I do is this, After cleaning all the mating surfaces, I use ultra black RTV. I put some on my finger, and outline all 4 of the coolant passages on the heads. Doesn't take much, just a thin coating. I then use a spray on sealer like the red spray tack, or copper coat. I spray it on both sides of the metal gasket around the ports. I then lay the metal gasket in the valley. Then the rubber seals go on front and rear with a dab of ultra black where the ends of the seals tuck under the head. I then put some ultra black on my finger and again outline the 4 coolant passages on the top of the metal gasket. Then install the intake and torque to spec. 45 ft.lbs for the aluminum intake and iron heads.
The right stuff sealant on both ends. Tighten the intake bolts to 5 foot pounds then let dry overnight and torque down the next day
I’d use a thin coating of Right Stuff around the coolant passageways, and a SMOOTH, continuous bead of Right Stuff in place of the end seals. You have 1 shot at the end rails. Smooth, consistent pull on the caulk gun and a steady hand. Try to minimize the peaks and valleys, and I’d recommend cleaning it off and starting over again if you even had a thought of trying to blob-on a back fill. People really set themselves up for a “re-repair” if they aren’t careful here. A thin layer in the corners up to the lower corner of the coolant ports also helps in sealing splash in these areas.
IMO, the Right Stuff is miles-ahead of the standard RTV of yesteryear. With potentially unknown block, heads and intake machine work, and the sketchy quality of (Chinese?) end seals, the best option is to use the Right Stuff in place of the ends seals. Heck, when everything was new and GM had good end seals, they would still seep. But the bead has to be laid correctly. I've seen pictures of folks trying to do this and it looks like they're decorating a cake or something.
I've heard all good things about the "Right Stuff" Doesnt it make removal a pain tho? Sounds like a flexible JB weld almost.
It can, yes. But I don't recommend using it in place of a gasket on stamped-steel components, such as oil pans or valve covers. That may assure their destruction when the time comes.. And whoever said that you can't use it on a gasket, well that's pure poppycock! I've been doing it that way since the stuff came out 25-30 years ago, with fantastic success. The idea is not to go back into something for a long time, but that doesn't always work out. Removing an intake manifold, especially with a splash shield that gets sealed into the front and rear rails, is no fun with the Right Stuff. A good razor blade helps out though. There is no need for letting the Right Stuff dry over night. To the contrary, the directions state to get on with it, on and final torqued within 5 minutes and back in service. Back in service = run immediately, which for us folks making a "flat-rate" type living is a big deal.
I can imagine using the “Right Stuff” on an oil pan or valve covers would result in bending trying to remove How is it for threaded fittings verses RTV as far as seepage of oil? Most gaskets I install dry, or use Hy tack spray a gasket, the red jelly stuff on paper gaskets like the timing cover. I need my engine to come apart easily seeing as I’m always taking it apart or out for one reason or the other
RTV only around the 4 coolant passages, and at the ends of each rubber seal where they tuck under the head. Spray sealer around the intake port part of the gasket. The intake manifold bath tub gaskets used to come with a brush able sealant for just that purpose. Just like some use a spray sealant for steel shim head gaskets, it doesn't hurt to use it with the metal type gaskets especially if you reuse them.
I used to use Right Stuff extensively but it doesn't take much disassembly to make you rethink that decision. I've since gone to the ultra black gasket maker as the default sealant as it seals just as well but is easier to remove, and it seems to hold up well to hot oil. For intakes I find it best to test fit the parts and look at the gaps before deciding how to seal things, then use gaskets and seals as needed, and sealant to insure that they work. I also like to assemble in such a way that the sealant can create a small cushion and let that harden before tightening if not using a gasket. Takes more time and wouldn't work where that's a concern but I feel it is good to allow for micro-movement of the parts when possible for better long term integrity. And when you disassemble, look for the places that leaked. That is a good indicator of where to direct your attention. Jim
It can't be too clean. When I started at GM in the early 80's, they used red stuff called GMS. We called it gooey messy ****. It was very difficult to get this stuff to seal, especially on something like a transmission pan where fluid would constantly drip from the transmission. The new sealers are much more forgiving, but still needs to be oil free, including oil from your skin. After I clean all surfaces, I put on a pair of gloves and spray brake clean on a clean rag and wipe off all surfaces. After the sealer is applied, DON'T use your finger to smear it around! I always quickly assembled the parts before the sealer set. I did use Right Stuff on my oil pan three years ago and against my better judgement, followed the instructions that stated loosely install component, wait one hour and final torque. I guess they were correct, I have no leaks.
