Hey Everyone, I have been hard at work on loads of projects around the shop such as the Aluminum GS Hood Seal plates that Bizerre has posted for sale in the parts for sale section, and admittedly have not been paying much attention to his thread. If you guys are interested send me a PM. Just a heads up We found that overall the install was cleaner and easier when we used a Rear exit Compressor. I will get some new pictures and pricing soon as I will have to get another one cut and welded for Bizerre's 72 GS project. Just so that you all know I did in fact get the unit in this car operating properly with the factory heater controls. (Factory A/C controls are another story) I also have a set of water jet brackets that only requires you to drill two additional 1/4 holes in the Radiator core for the condenser and one 1/4 hole for the Aluminum hard line support clamp. (if you are doing the install in a 70-72) As you guys well know the Dash on the Driver side is Real tight so we made some modifications to the VA Defrost plenum to clear the factory gauges and created a air box for the air to pass through, under the Column. This was a non air car but had the fresh air vents in the outside of the dash so we were able to use the factory vents and just added two VA vents under the center of the dash. I for see the Factory A/C car going a little more smoothly as I should be able to retain 90% of the Factory air Ducting, we will still have to come up with a better system for the driver side defrost. I will try and post some pics tomorrow.
455 Vintage Air 70-72 Buick Here you go guys here are some pics of the VA install in a 1970 Skylark. The bracket is all done and the belts like up great. We used a dual grove alternator pulley to help keep tension on the compressor We opted for the rear exit compressor for this setup..... it helps keep the lines look a little cleaner. Belt Alignment The condenser mounted. This is the lower condenser bracket. The #8 Hard line was bent up to look like the factory setup. This pan head screw is holding a clamp that holds the #6 A/C line behind the battery. We used the lower dash vents from the VA kit. We just sanded and painted the housing to match the dash, we also removed the chrome from around the vents to more appropriately match the dash. The Factory Heater Control handles the VA quite nice. This is the under column Plenum.... you will have to use your imagination on how this installs.
Nice work, the compressor looks good mounted like that. Why did you use the under dash vents, does your dash pad not have the vent that's kind of in the center?
No, I have 2 pads for this car and neither of them had the center vent. At least is wasnt one of the ones that didnt have any vents.....
i used the original a/c bracket, cut it down near the bolt holes, then used a piece of all thread and a few washers and nuts. not show quality but it fast, cheep and easy. the hardest part is removing material from the bracket to get clearance for adjustment of the belt.
Longhorn, The set up looks good. I just my have to work at getting one for my wagon. Have you ran that set up? How does it perform? Tim
OK everyone I was able to get a second bracket cut and welded. This bracket is slightly different than the first. I have moved the compressor closer to the center line of the engine and I also shortened the amount of swing on the tentioner bracket. I now have this bracket installed on a friends 72 455 with original A/C Pulleys. The bracket is constructed from 1/4 and 3/16 steel plate and 3/4 diameter steel sleeves which is all tig welded together.
Once again, I'll say that's a nice looking creation :TU: If you get to the point where it's worth your while to sell those, I'm inline. Being out here in Phoenix, it'd sure help me enjoy the car a little bit more April to October :laugh:
Ok guys When I am confident enough to make these brackets available they will be right around the $200 due to material costs and time involved. You would have to re use your original alternator tensioner and alternator/head bolts. I would supply bolts for the compressor and thin washers to dial in the alternator fore and aft as I have seen slight differences in alternator lower mounting bosses.
Hi Longhorn... Not sure what you mean by ..."you would have to use your original alternator tensioner" Do you mean the flat metal arm that you tighten up the alternator to? Huuuum? Price sounds good. Eric / Oregon :3gears: