I agree with Brian,10.50 for a 460 is a good enough carb.That's the size of the carb in my race car,and that's gone 9.04,and with a little better short time,she would have dipped into the 8's.My friend here on Long Island went 9.16 with a better short time then mine,mine was burning tires at the start.Bruno.
Thanks for the hint. Talked to Jan today and got some good advice. I will start with sonic checking the block, hopefully I get that done in of January.
I would advise against the 494... with a 2" pin, the crank is much more likely to flex and break eventually. The only Buick crank I have seen break in two pieces, came out of a 700 HP 494. It lasted a long time, but sooner or later...
Another reason I get a billet crank. Just like the rest of the engine,the factory crank has its limits,and we are pushing them beyond what they were designed for. You can have one made with 2.100,2.00”,or even 1.88 Honda journals. I haven’t run anything with the Hondas yet,but have a 2.00” and a 2.100” I run the factory cranks at 2.200” with a long rod and a nice short,lightweight piston with a modern ring stack.Can’t get as much additional stroke out of a factory one with a 2.200”,but it’s a safer build that you won’t run over down the track.
Thanks Jim, been looking into your 470/482 rotating assemblies. They look really good, will most likely go that way.
First time using a sonic tester, so I did several measurements, not much diff between each measurement. Here is the result. Does this look realistic or is there something wrong? Reading the thread on sonic testing and other threads on wall thickness this should actually be fine as I understand it? I also measured the bore. The cylinder looks fine. All 8 cylinders came out at 110,18mm to 110,21mm = 4.3437" It's 0.031" over. It is possible to do another 0.007" to get to 0.038" over? or is that too little material to remove?
I agree with you Jim,but mine has been there for a long time.I wanted to get a steel crank then ,but at that time only TA had them and was a lot cheaper to run a stock crank.Now, if I was younger,I would go with that crank and the aluminum block.I will be 85 in less then a month,still racing Buicks.Bruno.
If the bores look good, I wouldn't take anymore out of them. Meat=strength. You're already pushing the engine, although not all that much, so you want to retain as much "stability" as possible. If you stretch the stoke out to an even 4", that'll give you 474 cubes, with the overbore you already have. Even if you did a straight up Stage 2 setup, you're already at 600 HP, given the displacement increase. ...now work in modern heads, manifolds, roller cam, etc.... SO, I think you're pretty much already there. ARP bolts, caps are good insurance, too. Good luck, my fellow Dane. -b Bob
