Well the answer to that is no. Decided to leave the TA Performance HEI in there while breaking the new cam in. That was the plan, but no way would she fire up. Checked for tdc, rockers were on the back of the cam, distributor was lined up with no.1 but she wouldn't fire. No pops or bangs, in fact nothing. I checked the spark and it's very weak so ran a line direct from the battery to the distributor, still nothing. I'm going to try the new distributor tomorrow.
Gents I need your help I suspect that I may have reached the point of not being able to see the wood for the trees. This engine flatly refuses to start. So what have I checked so far. Power to the HEI - 13.4V direct from the battery. As the engine is on a test stand the battery is connected to a Sterling Power Bank. Sparks - big, fat and blue Fuel - yes, float level adjusted to half way up sight glass. Everything else left as per the previous running settings. Plugs - cleaned and gapped to 0.040" Lifter preload - set to 0.040" Lifters on the back of the cam at TDC and number 1 cylinder on the compression stroke, both rockers level with each other and the piston verified as being at the top of the stroke. Compression stroke verified using the trusted rubber bung in the spark plug hole and fired across the workshop as the engine is brought up to TDC by hand. HEI - rotor arm pointing at number 1 with crank at TDC as per previous bullet Oil pump primed and run at 60psi using the trusty electric drill method. 40psi showing when cranking. Tried two HEI's, one TA Performance which was used for the dyno runs, and the new Progression Ignition HEI. No difference between the two, she still wont fire up. So when I crank her over I'm not getting any pops, bangs, or blow back, in fact she doesnt even sound like she's firing at all. She sounds like she wants to fire but isnt.
The only thing I can think of is you are blowing past the compression stroke and setting the distributor on the exhaust stroke. If you crank the engine too fast instead of bumping it over, you can go past the mark. Then if you continue to line the mark up, you end up on exhaust. An alternate method is to watch the #1 intake rocker arm. The intake will go full open and close on the compression stroke.
If #1 valves are both closed he is there.... Pic of balancer shows it at minus 2. Might put at zero and then advance distributor some past rotor pointing at #1. But...it still should have done something. Are you squirting some fuel with accelerator pump?
Make sure the dist is still getting volts while it is cranking. You changed the HEI so that should have changed the coil in process. Or did you use the same coil? I was getting spark with my MSD but there was not enough to start the car a new coil solved this and was cranking the same as you and I was getting spark but not enough. After coil change it would shoot lightning bolts 1 inch, Started then. I would say maybe ignition key but it sounds like you are on an engine stand and I imagine the key is a switch or button to start. Just double check that #1 piston on its compression stroke the balancer will help also it will be next to one of the timing marks, look at intake valve to be closed on closing stroke as said and check that pump shot sometimes it takes a little more shot. Usually two good pushes with my double pumper fires the car right up if everything is working I have no choke.
@LARRY70GS I'm setting tdc with a breaker bar on the crank bolt so I'm pretty sure I'm on the compression stroke. Also the valves on number one are both shut. @BQUICK I agree, it should be doing something. The pump shot is certainly working @Fox's Den both HEI's are new or practically new. Thanks for the inputs. I'm going to recheck everything
So I've compared what I can see against the cam card and within the bounds of measuring against the marks on the balancer it all matches. So no doubt I have the valve timing correct. Before I stripped the engine down for the new cam I marked the distributor with reference to the block. That all lines up so no doubt the ignition timing is correct. It also checks out if I set it independently of the marks. Just pulled the plugs and they are all wet, so fuel is getting through. Just uploaded a rough and ready video to YouTube
I hate to say it but sometimes a little starting fluid does the trick if the plugs and cylinders are flooded. Once at ATCO my needle and seat stuck and I severely flooded my 455. Took plugs out and dried them but it still took some starting fluid to wake it up.
Ok, so the engine will start with starting fluid and will run for the time it takes to use it up. After that it dies, so this says to me its likely fuelling. The carb last ran on the dyno last year so it may need cleaning. Any thoughts?
I'm a little late to the party asking if you had verified spark at the plug, but it sounds like you have it. So yeah, it's fuel. before you tear that carb apart, verify you have fuel pressure at the manifold.
Cant see how you have the wires routed on the cap but from what Im seeing the rotor is not pointed at # 1 tower or at least where most of us put #1
At that point yes it sounds like fuel there could be something in one of the idle air bleeds. spray the holes out with carb cleaner if you do not take carb off or tear it apart. That gas now with the ethanol in it will leave this white gunk left behind and this is what plugs up the passages in the carbs this crap is killing older small motors. Sounds like everything is right maybe just put in another set of plugs. It does sound like this thing should go even with the plugs getting wet, they usually work if they got dried out.
I see that carb looks new it should be good. Check for that voltage gong to the HEI while you are cranking it just to make sure you have voltage going there. Check the grounds going back to the battery that is important. your getting plenty of gas off the shooters. Just make sure it shoots sparks to ground from a spark plug wire, They make a thing that looks like a spark plug you put on the end of the wire to check for spark or you do it the old way and put screwdriver in plug wire an have the screwdriver about 1 inch from ground. If it can jump that it will or should fire up. Got a timing light? connect it to #1 plug and point at timing mark while cranking at least it will flash where the timing is at. might have to move distributor for more advance.
Just check the float bowls for crying out loud. Holleys hold quite a bit of fuel. It should idle for awhile on just the bowls. They must be dry if it starts and then stalls.
