1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

57 Buick w/66 425 Restomod issues

Discussion in ''Da Nailhead' started by 53ragtop, Nov 15, 2023.

  1. 53ragtop

    53ragtop Well-Known Member

    I have a 57 Buick Restomod with a 66 425 equipped with EFI and March serpentine belt system. Cooling fans are dual Spal electric. Battery is an Optima Red Top.

    So my issue is car starts and runs as it should. System shows that it is charging as it should. My issue is that once the fans kick in at 180 degrees if you shut the engine off and try to restart, the starter acts as the battery is dead……just clicks. After it cools down it starts as it should.

    Any thoughts as to what the problem might be and/or a solution.
     
  2. Max Damage

    Max Damage I'm working on it!

    Check all the battery connections and the grounds. I don't understand the "fan kicks in at 180 degrees if you shut the engine off..."

    Sounds like the fan is doing what it should?

    If all the connections are good, the starter seems the likely culprit. especially if it's getting hot when the car is running (near exhaust pipes?).
     
    Lucy Fair likes this.
  3. 53ragtop

    53ragtop Well-Known Member

    Clarification! Just indicating that the fans do kick in at 180. However if you shut the engine off after the fans kick in/or running, that is when it won’t immediately restart. All battery connections have been checked and are good. This is a “newer” problem as previously restarting when engine was hot was not an issue. Will investigate the starter/exhaust situation. Thanks for your input.
     
  4. Stevem

    Stevem Well-Known Member

    Here's a way to use process of elimination to find out what's taking place .
    At home get this problem to take place.
    Next with a person looking at the front of the car turn the headlights on.
    Next go to restart the motor.
    If the headlights dim down a ton then the starter IS trying to crank the motor as it should, but it can't pull the needed current to do so .

    If when you go to crank the motor the headlights do not dim then the starter solenoid is heat soaked and not able to close the circuit to actually get the starter to spin.
     
    Lucy Fair, 12lives and Dadrider like this.
  5. 53ragtop

    53ragtop Well-Known Member

    Just for the record it is a mini starter. And thanks you for the info Stevem! Will try that “test” later today possibly! Thanks!
     
  6. 436'd Skylark

    436'd Skylark Sweet Fancy Moses!!!!!

    Heat soak is my first guess.
     
  7. Rockable

    Rockable Well-Known Member

    Did you check the spacing between the starter gear and the flex plate? You may need to shim the starter.
     
  8. Stevem

    Stevem Well-Known Member

    Well those types of started don’t have solenoid heat soak issues which brings into play the simple fact that many have just plan gone bad on folks with open windings that only show there teeth when a warm motor as it normally will be a tad harder to crank then when cold.
     
    Lucy Fair and Max Damage like this.
  9. 53ragtop

    53ragtop Well-Known Member

    Ordered a new starter! To be continued……………
     
    Lucy Fair and Dadrider like this.
  10. John Codman

    John Codman Platinum Level Contributor

    Did the new starter cure the problem?
     
    12lives likes this.
  11. Rockable

    Rockable Well-Known Member

    Myy bad. You can't shim a Nailhead starter, the starter is piloted off the front of the starter motor. I was thinking BBB.
     
    Lucy Fair likes this.
  12. John Codman

    John Codman Platinum Level Contributor

    I was going to install electric fans on the Buchev, but when I discovered that they drew a total of more then 15 amps, I shelved that idea. the present Delcotron as I recall is only about 35 amps, so I would have to swap out a perfectly good generator for a bigger one. I'll stick with the engine-driven clutch fan. I'm not giving up the AC.
     
  13. Sounds like your fans are pulling to many amps to the use starter while they are running. Pull the fuse or fuses to them when it won't start. If it starts, you need to add a switch to your fans so they can be turned off to free up the amps to use your starter. Just be sure to turn them back on once it starts. I have an old Dodge truck that is set up this way along with an electric fuel pump on another switch. Good luck figuring it out.
     
  14. John Codman

    John Codman Platinum Level Contributor

    Just curious - Where are you drawing the power for the fans?
     
  15. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Are the fans running when you try to restart? If yes - Since this is a new problem, your battery may be getting old. Check the voltage while trying to restart.
     
  16. rmstg2

    rmstg2 Gold Level Contributor

    If that was the case the starter wouldn't work when cold either!
     
  17. 53ragtop

    53ragtop Well-Known Member

    Haven’t been here for a while! Problem solved. A combination of issues. Undersized wiring from alternator back to battery and defective ignition module! Also the mini starter was not engaging properly! Thanks for the suggestions and input!
     

Share This Page