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  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
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  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
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67 GTO a/c vacuum actuator replacemrnt

Discussion in 'The "Other" Bench' started by gokitty, Oct 8, 2021.

  1. gokitty

    gokitty Platinum Level Contributor

    On the way to repairing something else, the underhood vacuum actuator on my 67 GTO convertible got broken/damaged. Old plastic,thick thumble thumbs and "uh oh" don't mix. The upshot of this is that I purchased a replacement vacuum actuator from Ames and set about replacing it. Which is as far as I've gotten today. The vacuum actuator is mounted on the heater fan box and plastic ducting under the hood on the passenger's side. It looks as if the only way to get to this part is to dismount the fan blower housing and connected plastic ducting ,take it out and replace the part. Which, because of all the ac parts being on the same side ,looks as if the inner fender liner will have to come out.
    I've looked at the comments about this on our board because the 66 & 67 Skylark ac vacuum actuator setup is very similar to the GTO. If anyone has made this same repair before, I'd appreciate your guidance on the how-to and step sequence involved in making this r & r.
    Just another comment/observation. Why oh why did GM engineers mount the blower fan motor upside down at the back under this assembly? How many of these GM A-bodies which have had a fan motor/squirrel cage replaced are running around missing the screw on the fan housing closest to the firewall? Or have a round hole in the inner fender where a cut out metal circle has dumdum seam sealer to hold it in place where the inner fender was cut for access. Thanks y'all. I don't want to make any mistakes that I could avoid, so I'd appreciate advice from anybody who has done this before.
     
  2. PCUB

    PCUB PCUB

    Not sure how my experience relates specifically to your car needs but I'll pass along my option for you. I just did the heater core/box removal on a 71 AC car with similar obstructions to the "nasty" corner attaching nuts behind the inner fender. My car has had a recent paint job and I was concerned about damaging paint during the fender removal procedure. I went back to my local body shop and worked out their help in pulling the fender(s)/hood to gain access. They agreed to allowing me to access the car to remove the failed parts after fender removal (some shops cant or wont do this). I had taken out the interior AC duct work , glove box radio , etc. prior so there would be minimal lost time in the shop. The shop hours for fender R/R was under 10 total and it was well worth it to me to not have to cut holes or chance paint damage. If you explore this removal option it saves a whole bunch of headaches, cuts, bruises and sore body?!! :) For me, it was soooo much easier.
     
  3. gokitty

    gokitty Platinum Level Contributor

    Thanks for your suggestion, John. I wouldn't have thought of this. There's a small body shop I do business with that I can talk to about this. Archie
     

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