Looks good Adam.. Watching you do these things reminds me why I quit doing it.. Man, I hated the bodywork/paint/sand/buff process. Too much grunt work... If I never have to block sand a quarter panel again, it won't bother me a bit. Spraying the paint was fun, well at least until your arm gets tired.. and of course the final product is very satisfying. I did enough of them to prove to myself and everyone else that I could do it.. but I never enjoyed it enough to make it a lifelong thing.. what I really don't like is that once your all done, your on eggshells until the car leaves.. Which was not that big a deal when I had a 5000 sq ft shop, you could just put a breathable cover it and push it in a corner.. I have had to do that in my current, much smaller shop, and it's a real issue. Anyway, good luck with it.. I have a couple saddle brown ones here myself.. JW
Body work certainly isn't my favorite thing to do. It's a hell of a workout. I'm doing paint and body on a 40 Chevy convertible street rod that is going to be displayed at the street rod nats in KY this August. One of those "perfect" paint jobs. Talk about anxiety. And it's going to be a dark slate...so it's gotta be straight. Panel to panel blocking, but there isn't a flat surface on the car. UGH.
Adam- please keep the pictures coming!! I may have to have "someone" drop off a blue stage to you... LOL
Hoping to roll this thing out of a trailer at Bowling Green in a month. Don’t mind all the compound dust. I just finished yesterday.
Seeing a fresh coat of that paint makes it easier to understand why so many Burnished Saddle cars were sold in '70.
Adam- where did you find the paint for the interior pieces- like the metal dash, steering column? Was it a mix or a spray bomb? If it was a spray bomb, which one/ which color? Thanks!
I took the original code (found on the color chip chart) to my PPG dealer and they couldn't get me a modern code. So they called PPG's "library" and they spit out something that they could mix with modern toners. It is only available in their most expensive paint line, so a quart of DBC single stage paint and reducer was over $600. But it's the right sheen and appears to be the right color. TECHNICALLY, the top of the dash and the rear package tray metal piece are supposed to be more satin than the rest of the painted surfaces inside, but I'm not playing that game. It was hard enough to get this color. I think I took a photo of the can of paint and posted it here somewhere in this thread.
Adam, If you ever have to get the factory dull dash paint on the top of the dash, just add a flattening agent to the paint when you spray that area, where it shows thru in front of the dash pad.. Not a big deal.. I use to use Glasurite paints reducers and additives, but I am sure PPG has a comparable product.. It's not like you have to start over, with some different paint.. JW
Car looks beautiful by the way.. makes me want to finish one of my Brown Stage 1's... except for all the work to get there.. Someday when I have the time.. JW
I’m looking forward to seeing the brown car in person. It will be very attractive I’m certain. The correct paint for dash tops and rear window metal section is available but not cheap at about $200/qt. Unless it’s a concourse type restoration I would probably just use something else. It’s still good ole lacquer so it’s very easy to use and was a perfect match in color and texture to the original dash top paint (only used in the area between the dash pad and glass, and the metal section between the package shelf and rear glass). Called them (TCP Global aka autocolorlibrary) in California and they had the paint on our doorstep in a few days (shipped from North Carolina). It’s not cheap but there’s enough in a quart to do a dozen cars if it a common color like black. The black dash is a ‘68 Nova L79 my dad is doing now and the tan-ish color is my ‘69 GTO.
99.9% of people will never even look at the top of the dash and the 0.1% that do look at the top of the dash will only be looking at the VIN to see if it is a real GS 455. TCP had the original chip-charts on their website and I just looked up the paint code and gave that to them. I was shocked that they got the color right for the '69 GTO but it was right on the money.
