72 Skylark convertible always stops half way and needs to wait

Hi - I have a 72 Skylark Convertible and I have a problem with the top.

It operates fine for about 10 seconds then stops - no sound at all. After about 30 seconds it will operate again. It does not always happen at the same position and there's no apparent sign the pump is trying to operate. (I have no indication it's binding up or anything)

I checked the fluid and wiring and have looked through all the wiring diragrams and I'm stumped.

I was wondering if there's some kind of automatic circuit breaker that could be too sensitive but I couldn't find such a thing.

thanks for any help!

-Dan

 

Fuse is in the top left of the fuse box....large metal box....you may have a faulty switch/fuse.

 

The convertible top motor does use a circuit breaker. When it overloads it opens the circuit. When it cools a little it closes and the top will work. Each cycle will be shorter since it not completely cooled. All that it indicates is the top motor or the circuit is drawing too much amperage. Some causes can be bad/worn switch, loose or dirty plug connectors (either end), poor ground (lead is right at the motor), failing top motor, or too much mechanical resistance to lift the convertible top mechanism. For now you can pull and guide the top up by hand while someone operates the switch. Just help it along and don't force it. Clean the ground, clean the plug connector at the motor and under left side of dash. Put in a new circuit breaker, not a larger one. Make sure the top mechanism doesn't bind and try it again. It very well could be in the motor since they don't get used much and are very old. Look in Hemmings in the Buick/parts section under "convertible" and there is a well known convertible top supplier which the name escapes me at this moment. He has the motors.

 

If you need any parts for it, these guys will have it. www.convertibleparts.com

 

Hydro-E based here in FL...just north of me....has all kinds of parts....I would disconnect the lift cylinders from the top and operate the top manually....you will be able to tell right away if there is a friction/binding problem.

 

Thanks for all of the advice!

The convertible top positive wire (from the switch) goes into the fuse box next to a standard automotive fuse plug but the fuse in there is not your typical looking fuse.

The fuse is rectangular and it's stamped 12V 40A F514

It's not what I expected and I don't see it anywhere on the parts web sites. Maybe the car was altered at some point.

I guess I could buy a few radio shack 40a fuses and see how that goes.

I don't think it's binding at all since when it does stop, gravity gradually moves the top.

 

Look for a circut breaker, that's what it should be in the circut.

 

Here's a tip.
Chrysler used the same top pump up until the late 90's in the Lebarons.
The only difference is the reservoir, but you can use the reservoir from your original pump, and then it will mount in the exact same place
Wiring is the same too (with a simple modification of the harness on the pump)

The best part is these are cheap!!! and much newer compared to our 40 year old cars.
Last one I bought, with the lines was $14 at a local u-pull yard
I switched the reservoirs, filled with fluid, bleed, and it worked much better!
They're so cheap, I had 2 more in case something happened again.

 

I traced the wire from the dash switch to the bat terminal in the fuse box, and the special fuse is in the accessory plug. If I pull it the top stops working.

I'm unsure if that's the factory setup since you guys are saying I should have a metal box at the top. closest thing I see is the blinker and I even unplugged those just to make sure it had nothing to do with the top.

(see pics)

 

thanks if I find out I need a pump I'll look into this.

 

That's a replacement 40 amp circuit breaker. The original would have looked like this pic from George's site. Ignore the arrow, the circuit breaker is the silver box shaped piece.

 

I was thinking it was female! :laugh:


Scott

 

He has the breaker, his happens to be black though. You can see it in his second picture. More than likely replaced once upon a time.

I don't remember the original value but 40A seems high. I'm thinking 20-30A would be the original but could be wrong I bet there is another problem somewhere as mentioned above such as bad switch (would increase electrical resistance and increase the amperage seen at the fuse/breaker) binding in the top, old worn out pump etc.

 

Didn't I already say that..................o No:
The owners manual shows it to be a 40A.

 

Thanks for all of the information. I'll post when I have time to do more investigation.

 

Yep,thats the original breaker...40amp is correct:TU:

 

I got to investigate this weekend and I think I need a pump. Anyone know where to get one at a decent price? I'm probably looking for a place to order from since I don't have time to hunt through bone yards. I see them on ebay for ~ 230. I'd consider the 80s chrysler option as long as it is a much cheaper option and bolts up ok but on ebay they are the same price as A body pumps.

As for my investigation: I found a replacement auto-resetting fuse and it did the has the same problem. Then I bypassed the dash switch - same issue and I noticed the wires get really hot. Then I used jumper cables, the new breaker, and some 12 gauge wire to power the pump right from the battery - same issue.

So I am pretty sure I need a new pump now. Also, there's no rhyme or reason as to where the pump stops and like I said gravity lets the top move on it's own when it trips.

thanks again,
-Dan

 

I bought a $230 new ebay pump. It's working great now. thanks