So I was able to get my a/c going on my Suncoupe. I'm getting 55* at the center vent on max a/c and recirculate with R134a. POA valve and expansion valves NOT recalibrated. I'll do those later after I get it all lined out and holding Freon which it currently is. Current issue is heater core and lines are same running temp as engine temp. I know there's a vacuum valve just off the water pump. Is this valve suppose to shut off all water to the heater core completely? I'm sure I'm picking up quite a bit of heat thru the heater core. Is the heater core and evaporator core using a common air box? I've never taken one apart or looked inside of one. Future plans if all my a/c system hold Freon is to recalibrate POA and expansion valves, install a parallel condenser and what ever else is required. FIL just replaced his condenser with Parallel and his a/c system is working a lot better. Thanks, Todd
Todd, I don't know the answer for a 72, but on the 66's they share a common box that distributes the air to the vents. Try pinching off one of the heater hoses with a vicegrips and see if this helps with the air flow. With today's temps being so low you should get some pretty low as readings. I'll check with the expert (son) later and see if he has any input.
I can try that for a quick trouble shooting try. But looking for a long term solution. As for the temps....Yes this week when it was cool in the mornings I achieved temps in the mid 40's. It was short lived when the heat came on later in the day though. All in all I'm liking having the a/c as a backup if needed. But pretty much ride with the Sun Coupe top open and arm stuck out the window.
Hate to divert thread- but I went to buy heater core for 68 sky and was shown aluminum unit. Any one know if copper/brass still available? Signed-windy city
Todd, If you're getting 55 degrees without re-calibration that's pretty good. That's about what I was getting after calibration. Vacuum controlled heater valves don't shut off completely. You could put a manual valve in and shut it off for summer. You can re-calibrate the expansion valve turning the brass cup that holds the spring in until it bottoms out while you count the turns, it's usually 6 to 8 turns. Multiply the number of turns by .6, so, if it was 8 turns it becomes 4.8 turns. Also it helps to put pipe insulation on all the refrigerant tubes in the engine compartment so they don't pick up engine heat. You can also stuff pipe insulation between the condenser and the core support and between the shroud/radiator for more positive air flow through the condenser. As far as I know there is no way to re-calibrate the POA valve but they sell one calibrated for 134.
They are still available. I believe OPGI has them. Its hit or miss from the auto parts stores. You can also have a new one made with your original tanks at a local radiator shop
I had the radiator shop do a radiator for my 69 a couple years ago . I want to say it was 5 bills. Now the radiator in the 68 is getting flaky. I believe the aluminum components in the cooling system corrode? Any way I bought oldheater core off bay ( still in box). However its been so long since I messed around with one that I suspect it was for a six. Imean it doesn't have support between inlet tubes. Thanks
I was thinking the modern cars antifreeze. ( orange colored) was formulated to compensate for the aluminum that they use for the use in their cooling sytems.I have a aluminum Rad from vendors who sell universal size but only as last resort.When I run out of options. Ill have to have something other than plastic.
Looks like Rockauto has it. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...9228,heat+&+air+conditioning,heater+core,6864
Use Caterpillar ELC 1 coolant for your system if you go with an aluminum core or radiator. 50/50 mix is around $13 per gallon
