Hello Folks Just made the deal for an original 73 Regal 350/350 with 63k on the clock- the AC does not work and I would like to have the old system repaired/recharged with OE refigerant ( R12 ) etc. Anyone local to the Flagstaff area who can take a look? I am of course willing to pay reasonable T&M.:dollar: I am going to be driving the car back to California ( SF bay Area ) from Az. on or around the 13th of April and no, I don't want to drive 1200 miles in 90* heat all the way with the windows open:3gears: Please respond or give me a PM etc. Thanks!! Robert
Im down here in Phoenix but it would not be benificial to go back to Freon OEM. Its high price and the conversion is a better product because of the low compression and its easier on the compressor. The question is why doesnt it work and does it need a compressor rebuild, clutch and bearings or an old leak?
I'd give these guys a call... Arizona Mobile Air 3601 West Clarendon Ave Phoenix, AZ 85019 602-233-0090 http://www.ackits.com/ Not sure what refrigerant you're referring to but 134A and most of the R-12 replacements have a higher head pressure than R-12 which is harder on the compressor. There are also oil changes, system flush, hose and o-ring changes and POA valve adjustments needed when converting to R-134A. IMHO, R-12 is still the best refrigerant to use in an R-12 system. After all, that's what it was designed for. Of course, you must repair any leaks before charging or you're wasting your money.
Freeze 12 is a direct replacement to the original r-12. It runs a head pressure of 175 to 180 and the low presure cycle needs to be dropped down to 17 to 22. R-12 ran 350 to 375 in AZ heat with the low side at 40 to 45. You fill Freeze 12 by head pressure not quantity of cans. The orfice is changed to black (ford) on our GMs.
o yeah and freeze 12 will chill you right out of the car. lol Call AAPAC for all your supplies at cost.
Thanks for all the advice/suggestions - I would really like to stay R12 because A) it works B) I dont have to rebuild the whole @#$ system and C) SOMEWHERE around here i've got a case or more of 12 oz cans plus the little fill jobbie kit you could buy with it. And D) I've got at least one other car to support that would use the R12- so far:laugh: I know I'm gonna have to have a leak traced, most likely and an evac and new drier, but heck, the compressors are built to Timex standards and there really just aint that much else. I could wait, get it down here and go to it but if I can put some meat on a guys table ( or that new set of valve covers -priorities here folks!! ) and we both drive away happy ( me cold ) then life is good. Thank you all again Robert
You dont have to rebuild the system with freeze 12. If your putting in the R-12 and down the road you lose some then freeze 12 will compliment it. No contamination. Your already going to put in a new dryer and chase a leak. Local shop should be reasonable if you already have everything.
It seems to work better the 100 percent 134a but to each his own. http://www.aa1car.com/library/tr497.htm
that page has some good info on this subject :gp: here's a quote from that page, "MACS ALTERNATIVE REFRIGERANT FIELD STUDY A field study of various refrigerants conducted by the Mobile Air Conditioning Society (MACS) in 2003 compared the cooling performance of R-12, R-134a and three blended refrigerants (Freeze 12, FRIGC and McCool Chill-It). The study found that all the alternative refrigerants (including R-134a) did not cool as well as R-12 in the vehicles tested (a 1990 Pontiac Grand Am and a 1987 Honda Accord). But the study did find that the blends outperformed R-134a in the Honda (but not the Pontiac). The increase in A/C outlet temperature with the different refrigerants ranged from less than a degree to almost 11 degrees. " I also wanted to mention that you're right, for people that can't get R-12, the alternatives will work. I remember when R-12 first went crazy, there were guys that dumped R-134a into the old R-12 systems with no changes and said it worked great.
