Bad timing, but I need to remove the cast lugs on my heads

Any reason you are not using long tube headers Jon? Seems like they would give you better power, sound, fit, etc???

 

Every pair of long tube headers I have ever used have hung too damn low and drag the ground.

 

I recommend a Chianti to accompany that.

 

My experience has been quite different. Moving the trans forward is only going to make things worse. If anything, moving the trans back would help get the motor mounts to drop on to the frame mounts w/o the engine running into the transmission. If the trans isn't installed, the engine drops right in..

And if you used "the solution in search of a problem" BHJ Tru-align on this engine, I hope you've told the OP (unless something has changed) that your custom-made dowels are far too long and don't have enough chamfer for an easy engine install with the trans already in the vehicle. When installing UG's engine ver 1.0, I thought I was loosing my touch as the install was miserable with those dowels as supplied! Then I recall seeing something in UG's paperwork about the Tru-dowel being used, and that was clearly the problem. Although you probably won't recall, but when I sent the engine back to you for repairs, I asked you to install the shorter BHJ dowels (BHJ lists long and short), but you said you had the dowels custom-made. You forgot, but I didn't! Pounding them in further only helped a little, but removing them, shortening them and adding a much better chamfer (look at stock BBB dowels for a comparison) certainly saved me some grief on ver 2.0. So if you want to cut something to help with the install, I'd start here lol, if they were used.

 

Having the trans forward allows it to be lifted higher.. usually makes it easier to set the engine and trans together with the engine mount hanging half over the frame pad. Sliding the pair back is a real pita though. Obviously with a big pry bar it's easy, but that usually isn't an option with a freshly detailed engine and chassis.. so I'd say leave it in place..

I'm not sure the value in the long dowels either. Seems to be the norm with race engines.. i'm with Bob on this one, they are a pain...

 

I was intending on attaching the trans to the engine and then putting it in as a unit.

That is how I have doing it on my test setup which is block and heads and finished trans bolted on.

Remember, no front end sheet metal on the car.

 

Joe, having the trans more forward will likely cause more interference with the flex plate, even if the trans is higher. The engine has to be where it has to be to go on the frame pads. I've never tried to slide the trans back. It may or may not help, and you shouldn't be causing too may problems. There is enough play in the slip yoke.

The Tru-Dowel system, a source of contention. I've never used it on a BBB, and IIRC, TA's dowels on the Tomahawk are very similar to stock ones. I've been friends with our local machine shop for 40 years, same guy is still working there (friend of mine) since high school. His experience has been for the old iron, Mopar by far had the worst machining from the factory. He built our dentist (we go to the same dentist) a Pro-charged 440 and put a Tremec behind it. I think it was only 750 HP, but it ate those Tremecs (which my friend says are borderline junk anyhow) until Tremec told him to Tru-dowel it, and it worked. For a 500 HP street BBB, I feel it is not money well-spent. JMO.

 

Jon,
You should be all set then. Wresting an engine in with the trans already installed with those long dowels is no fun, and the thing takes takes the most beating are long-tube headers tethered to the side, so it adds a lot more work to keep them in place and to keep from scratching them, etc. The thing with UG's that was the most frustrating was not recognizing the longer, small chamfered dowels sooner. I just wanted to try to save you some headaches.

 

Which shield did you use? How is fitment?

 

Make sure the driveshaft is not installed.
The transmission not bolted to cross member.
And a floor jack under transmission.
Jack up a bit and slide the transmission back.
I always install engine w trans on jack low by floor and install after. Easy and takes additional 10 minutes or so w no wrangling.
Just an idea if trans is already in car.

 

I changed from a ST300 to the TH400 so I already need a new drive shaft.
I also have adjustable upper rear control arms and I want to make sure my pinion angle is set right before final measurement for the drive line. That needs to be done when sitting on the wheels.

It was actually rather easy to get my dummy motor and trans in once I got the pads in the right spot. Difference will be the intake and carb and oil pan. I will probably pull the carb before install because why not just to be safe. Having a cherry picker and the car on my scissor lift I can can just slide it back and drop onto the mounts. Much better since I mounted the pads correctly. Who knew they were staggered an inch?

 

Csr 837.......it fits nice once those lugs are cut off........its lays tight to trans, my motor is moved back from the stk location.....but I can still pull the trans only if needed after a little moving in the tunnel......but it just barely can be done.

If things were in the stk location no issue at all I would imagine

https://www.jegs.com/i/CSR/170/837/...soOk4NF8yrDS8nBG60sZpWkUvs8UWgohoCOQEQAvD_BwE