The one arrow is pointing to the axle shaft area where the rubber lip should be riding. The other green arrow is pointing to the in the tube seal... not the outer edge of the housing (which it sort of looks like from a glance. )
Know if the axle shaft machined surface area is not long enough machined surface and it is riding on a cast non-machined surface this will leak bad too. Like Brian was saying wrong axle then that will be your issues too. The outside diameter of your sealed ball bearing is a slip fit and does not and should not require sealant.... even if the tube is rough and dirty where the bearing metal to tube metal mate it does not have anything to do with sealing the rear end. measure the distance from the bearing to the end of the seal machined surface and see what the distance is. if you hook a tape measure to the bearing and draw it to the seal surface parallel it should be about 2" the seal will ride about 1 3/4" from that same measurement. I have seen people put a OILED bearing in place of a sealed bearing axle and it will cause the seal NOT to ride on any machined surface also. Trying to help you - we kind of hand tied with the info and pics your providing. Jim
Just took it apart. The bearing retaining ring on the axle shaved some of the oil seal surface away, probably from me not installing the oil seal all the way in. Live and you learn
Yes- It appears the seal is not pressed into the housing end far enough and is rubbing on the metal and likely tore up the seal and from the rubbing likely over heated the seal lip and melted it. Try a new seal clean up the tube with brake cleaner and install the axle again. Lube the seal lip and use RTV on the OD of the seal metal to the inner tube surface where they mate. Good luck, Jim
Ok. Found it. It does look like the correct shaft. I recently took a P-type 8.2” apart that one shaft was replaced with a later shaft. It obviously leaked because the seal was on the cast section,but the shaft also stuck out from the housing about 3/8”,which also left little engagement of the splines into the unit. Here is one of the bearings from that beauty.
WOW...LOL. That pretty screwed... =8O I had him measure it from the bearing to the end of the machined surface the seal rides. He was good at 2" and the seal would ride in the 1 .75" range . Think he said the seal just did not get pressed in far enough to the housing inner machine ledge.... Which would make a mess too. Jim
Timken just arrived. The OD is a hair thicker than both my old seals. Here’s a mock up before I try it out. And yes it fits very snug on the axle
Ok, looks like so far so good. Been driving all day and checking and seems like it’s stopped leaking. The rtv around the OD of the seal and really hammering it in the housing really worked - my bearing tool actually got stuck for a minute from how hard I was hitting it. When I get a chance will confirm by taking wheel off
You should not have to hit a seal in that hard...??? But if it is working that is a good theng. Reason we always use a 4 pound sledge to install the seals. just light swing from that drive the seal clean and you do not need to get vilent with the hammer which could mangle the seal going in straight or potato chipping it. Really HOPING this is it for you. Jim
