1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

Brake booster & master cylinder - what are they from?

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by Utah455, Sep 21, 2024.

  1. Utah455

    Utah455 Platinum Level Contributor

    Typo, meant EA. The correct for 70 Stage 1

    Good idea, I'll have to check. Yeah I was thinking of trying the hold off myself. And already was looking at whitepost for the master. Mike did mention he sends them out and prefers stainless. I'll have to take a picture of the master when I get home, not sure if it needs rebuilding or not.
     
  2. john.schaefer77

    john.schaefer77 Well-Known Member

    Early 70 Framingham car. Hard to get a pic of the upside Delco but here it is:
    20240930_172614.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

    Dano, Max Damage and Utah455 like this.
  3. Utah455

    Utah455 Platinum Level Contributor

    Took some pictures of the EA master cylinder I have and guess it probably needs to be sent out just in case. Bought from a reputable source but don’t have any history on it as whether it worked/not worked.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. BuickV8Mike

    BuickV8Mike SD Buick Fan

    . 20240930_181512.jpg 20240930_181512.jpg 20240930_181428.jpg
     
    Utah455 likes this.
  5. BuickV8Mike

    BuickV8Mike SD Buick Fan

    003 and...
     
  6. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

    Well, I did and still wouldn't hesitate to use or recommend them.

    I sent my original CT master cylinder late in 2022. Got it back within a week but it wasn't car season yet, so it went on the shelf.

    A couple months later, I installed it - and was excited to have a refurbished, original component back in the engine bay.

    However, it wouldn't bleed - or something was messed up, I forget exactly what. Nonetheless, after 2 hours of messing with it, I put the aftermarket one back one and the original back in the box White Post shipped it to me in.

    That evening, I sent them an email explaining what was happening. The next morning, they replied with a FedEx shipping label. 5 days later, I had it back and installed that same weekend. It's been fine since.

    Customer service goes a long way with me and theirs is top notch.
     
    Utah455 likes this.
  7. bignastyGS

    bignastyGS Maggot pilot

    After reading through this thread,the master cylinder and booster from my GSX has 97 stamped on the tab and Delco upside down too. That should be April 7 1970?? I don't know how to decipher the master cylinder though. 20241003_181052.jpg 20241003_181212.jpg
     
    Utah455 likes this.
  8. Utah455

    Utah455 Platinum Level Contributor

    @bignastyGS what number do you have on the other side of the tab on the booster? Opposite of 97?

    there is a two letter code on that front tab on the master. Top side. Tried to draw blue arrow. I’ll look for the thread with the codes.

    upload_2024-10-3_18-56-53.png
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2024
  9. bignastyGS

    bignastyGS Maggot pilot

    looks like the back side of the tab hs 1076 on it and the code on the master cylinder is EA
     
    Utah455 likes this.
  10. Utah455

    Utah455 Platinum Level Contributor

    Thanks! Awesome 1076. Just no delco stamp for me. EA is for power disc. and found the picture in the other thread I was looking for.

    upload_2024-10-3_19-24-6.png
     
    tdacton likes this.
  11. Redmanf1

    Redmanf1 Gold Level Contributor

    Good info
     
  12. Utah455

    Utah455 Platinum Level Contributor

    I ask this question to the judges and experts @Smartin @Duane @thepartsman

    my car is an 01B second week of January and have a dated coded master 338 which is 12/3/69. Booster has 1076 which we know is a stage 1. From what I am told, this is the original booster without the Delco stamp.

    @Staged70Lark has an 01D build 4th week Jan with a dated code of 356 which is 12/22/69

    both built at Flint both without the Delco stamp both with 1076 part number

    @john.schaefer77 Has an early Framingham build with the stamp. What is your car build date and booster date please?

    I heard 67-68 no stamp.

    so could mine and @Staged70Lark be early boosters without the stamp.

    my problem is that I am in the process of sending it to be rebuilt but I don’t want the judges to ding me in concourse because it doesn’t have the Delco stamp. Essentially pay $400 to rebuild my original booster only to have judges tell me it’s not original because it doesn’t have the stamp. Thoughts
    IMG_2597.jpeg IMG_2596.jpeg
     
    BUQUICK likes this.
  13. Redmanf1

    Redmanf1 Gold Level Contributor

    The 1076 does not have anything to do with stage 1, it identifies the year. I am not sure if the 70 Flint had the upside down Delco stamp or not. Could be a hit or miss thing.

    "Booster has 1076 which we know is a stage 1."
     
    Utah455 likes this.
  14. Stage 2 iron

    Stage 2 iron Platinum Level Contributor

    I have this brake booster. That’s possibly for a 72 with the Delco marine upright on the top. 1929 stamp, how do you decipher the day codes? IMG_4221.jpeg IMG_4220.jpeg
     
  15. Utah455

    Utah455 Platinum Level Contributor

    I believe 1929 is for a 1971. The date code is on the other side of that tab and would be just the day of the year. So the tab would have 1929 on one side and then a 3 digit number on the other side for the day of manufacture.

    I found a booster from a junkyard that has the Delco stamp and it's actually a 1929 part number. Not sure if its a 71 or 72.
    My plan was to take the junkyard front half with the Delco stamp and put it with my back half that has the 1076 number / 338 day date code to pass the concourse judging because they want the booster to have the Delco stamp. I hate to do that because I'm wrecking a good 1929 booster core just for judging.

    No one can confirm or deny on paper (forum) that there may have been some 1970 boosters had no delco stamp. I have heard from a couple individuals that early ones did not have the stamp. But it's all verbal with no proof. Other than a picture of mine, a picture of another's above and one sitting in an original car locally.
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2025
  16. Stage 2 iron

    Stage 2 iron Platinum Level Contributor

    Thanks Nick for the verification on the year. Sorry you have to go through the trouble for concourse anything is possible back in the day they were building great cars not perfect cars. Good luck with your project.
     
  17. Utah455

    Utah455 Platinum Level Contributor

    @Stage 2 iron - No worries and thanks! I edited my post above. Found conflicting info on part number 1929. Earlier thread shows from a 72 from like what you think or a new thread from a 71. your guess is as good as mine.
     
  18. Stage 2 iron

    Stage 2 iron Platinum Level Contributor

  19. breakinbuick11

    breakinbuick11 Platinum Level Contributor

    For the 1929 crowd: just pulled my booster off of my 71, built 04E and it’s stamped 110 (front), 1929 back. No reason to think that it’s not the original booster, although that date code if I’m reading it correctly is only a week or so before the build date of the car
     
  20. Redmanf1

    Redmanf1 Gold Level Contributor

    110 looks like April 20'th a Monday
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2025
    breakinbuick11 likes this.

Share This Page