I used a 1/2" air impact to remove the balancer bolt and the balancer slid right off. If you can get access to an air/electric impact driver, it might be the easiest and safest way to loosen that bolt. I think it's torqued to 120 ft.lbs (TA catalog torque specs). Give that balancer a good look-over for damage (rubber ring cracked, etc) when you have it off. There is another trick for breaking the balancer bolt loose - using a long breaker bar with a socket on the balancer bolt, pinning the breaker bar in a safe, locked position, and then bumping the starter to break the bolt loose. I have not done this, so someone else may need to provide some details to make sure this is done safely (cut power to the distributor so it doesn't actually start, where to pin the breaker bar, etc). I believe I came across this somewhere in the small-block forum, so I'm sure you could find some good directions on how to do this if an impact isn't an option.
Thank you very much Craig so if I’m understanding this correctly the bolt that holds down the balancer is the same bolt used to “crank” the engine over to get to tdc. I’m assuming I will go counter clockwise to loosen it like a regular bolt
Yes you are correct, counter clockwise. Once the bolt is out you can remove the balancer without any tools. It will slide off.
Very simple, breaker bar and socket. Rest the end of the breaker bar against the ground on the DRIVERS side of the car. The starter motor will easily break it loose. Putting it back on is more complicated but we will cross that bridge when needed.
Sorry for all the questions but I have one more. Before I begin pull stuff off the car, do I have to put my harmonic balancer to TDC mark? If my timing chain is in fact so loose that it may have jumped a tooth or a few would that not mean that my tdc is off now?
The balancer on a Buick is held on by a large bolt and washer. It is not a press on like other cars. It will slide on and off easily as long as nothing is wrong and keyway is decent. So just remove bolt. Slide off
No, you will need to line everything back up when you replace the gear set and chain. Then you will have to put the distributor back in on TDC compression.
No need to be at tdc when removing the balancer bolt. Once you get the timing cover off align the dots on the timing gears. FUI if the don’t line up when the crank dot is at 12 o’clock the chain jumped. Just leave the crank in that position and replace timing set put cover back and put distributor to fire number one cylinder. You can put index marks on the distributor when at tdc for number one compression stroke to assist with reinstallation. Good luck.
Thank you guys again for the help. I began removing stuff last night, I drained the oil, drained the coolant removed the fan shroud fan fuel pump dizzy. I began trying to remove the bolts off the pulley in front of the balancer. Those bolts are in there! I sprayed some lube on them and let it sit. I will try and start this weekend to remove everything again
Really? Awesome that makes it easier. I was trying to take it off because the belt that goes to the power steering is still attached to it. I didn’t know how to loosen the power steering to take it off so I figured if I loosened the pulley it would come off
This is a link to a 1970 service manual. It will be very close to your 69. Read through the R&R for the timing chain. The 69 and 70 350 are almost identical. http://buick.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/1970/1970 Service Manual/index.html Note - don't click on the ads to download a PDF...
Its easiest to remove the pulley on the balancer first. Unless the radiators out. Imo The socket for the large balancer isn't usually that long. Its tight and you want the breaker bar at 90 degrees when you hit the switch.
