I have a Borg dash clock out of a 62 Special, I have power, but no movement. It’s to my understanding these are mechanical driven. How do you remove the clock from the case to inspect the gears? Thx, Mark
On a 67 clock there are tabs that need to be bent back. I had the same problem. I cleaned the mechanism and very lightly oiled it. That did the trick. Most likely gummed up old lube. I used electronics part cleaner spray and wahl hair clipper oil. Just 2 or 3 tiny drops. Don't over do it.
...early "electric" clocks were actually wind-up mechanical clocks, winding was done by a solenoid that was energized by a switch, similar to ignition points, that made contact every few minutes as clock spring ran down. As stated above, mechanical parts usually gummed up, but occasionally the electrical "points" get dirty and don't make contact. Haven't done one like yours, but from first picture, looks line there's a small machine screw on lip of back cover. Should be one on other side. Maybe someone's done one and will chime in...
Thanks so much for your reply’s, yes I noticed that small either screw or nut, didn’t see a tab like most of them, I have some small tools from watch repairs. I am not a professional, but a good student always willing to learn new things.
I have a good repair text that explains the operation and repair of these clocks. PM me your E-mail and I will forward it to you .
When Ray purchased my '66 Wildcat, the clock didn't work. He took it out of the dash, took it apart, cleaned and lightly oiled it and put it back. 12 years later it still works.
Looks like there are little brass nuts/bolts(?) on either side of the case. I'd start there. Be gentle!
Chuck, glad to hear it’s still working, way to show some love and respect for our automotive history.
Yes, it's a mechanical clock. You have to be careful with these things, one slip and if the balance wheel (the wheel which oscillates back and forth) is broken or the hairspring is pulled, it'll never work again. Do not attempt to take it apart! The balance on those things was never designed to come apart, so service it carefully and very carefully clean it up. Open up the case, some of these covers are crimped, and disconnect any power leads. Check the Balance for oscillating movement. If rotates freely back and forth, the watch will likely run again. Then locate the set of points; - file them and ensure that they come together completely. Any misalignment will cause it to pit and fail again. Pull the points apart, moving the counterweight back. It's on a ratchet, so it only zings back, it will only move forwards with the movement running. The counterweight in the full open position should be enough to get the watch started, however, if it's really gummy, a quick twist of the wrist should get it running again. As for oiling; - BE VERY CAREFUL! DO NOT smother it in oil! the only points that should have barely a tiny drop on them are the pivots. Do not put oil on the gears! The oil you will end up using is the lightest sewing machine oil you can find, don't use "3 in 1" or anything like that! It's far too heavy! You could clean it up with WD-40, but I wouldn't recommend it. If you clean it with any type of solvent, it will have to be oiled, and here again, only the tip of a pin against the pivots is enough. Smother it with too much oil and it won't run, it'll have too much drag. After the points are filed, and the movement is cleaned and oiled, I'll set it in motion on the bench and then hook it up to a battery charger and watch the action. When the points come together, they fire off a spark and with a loud clunk the watch counterweight springs backward again. The whole process takes about 2 minutes before the points contact again. If your coil is good, it will contact, spark and repel. If the points come together and don't spark, then it's likely the coil is burned up. Good luck!
