Converter lock up questions

Discussion in 'The "Juice Box"' started by gscalifornia, Mar 23, 2021.

  1. gscalifornia

    gscalifornia Small blocks rule!!

    I’ve got a 200-4R being built and will be using one of JWs converters behind the 350 in my ‘69. I’ve been reading all the posts about conversions I can find, and am wondering what led to people’s decision on how to control the converter lock up and disengagement.

    I’ve read about the B&M speed based control, simple switches, vacuum switches, etc. and am asking those who have made the swap to explain why they chose the method they did and what they would change if they were starting from scratch.

    Also wondering how many of you are running an aftermarket transmission cooler, and if you still route the lines through through the radiator as well.

    Thanks in advance for your input!
     
    Dano likes this.
  2. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    I run a Toggle under dash. And only lock convertor on x-way runs, Never around town. It's adequate for my use.

    Trans cooler thru rad, yes.
     
  3. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    The TCI vacuum switch in line with the tights switch. This way I can shut off the lockup completely or leave it to turn on when cruising. A brake switch is an important safety feature.
     
    docgsx likes this.
  4. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise EFI/DIS 482

    I have done this a few times... my favorite install is a master switch, that energizes the B&M speed based control unit.. Set the speed at 50mph.. and then we add in a vacuum switch, so the converter unlocks for anything more than a mild acceleration on the freeway.. we have all driven factory setups, this mimics that. I have found that a 8-10 inch drop from light throttle cruising vacuum is about the right balance between too much shifting, and the converter being locked up too long... this will vary with the vehicle specs and the build.. the vacuum switch and the box are adjustable to suit your particular driving preferences.

    With the B&M box turning the converter off below 50 mph, I have not felt the need to install a brake switch, but do understand those who might prefer to have one in place. For me the master arm switch is enough to cover any unforeseen circumstances.

    JW
     
    docgsx, sean Buick 76 and Dano like this.
  5. gscalifornia

    gscalifornia Small blocks rule!!

    After a little more reading I think I have a general plan of attack on this.

    1. Master power switch, was thinking of using a factory acc switch on the right side of the dash cluster to "hide" it
    2. B & M 70244 lock up controller kit
    3. 4 terminal brake switch
    4. Adjustable vacuum switch but need suggestions on which one to use and where to mount
    5. TV cable to the gas pedal just like my old T350, do I just use a standard T350 cable?
    6. Flexible braided transmission lines run inside frame rail to radiator, any better than others? Guessing I'll need 1/4" to 6an adapter fittings as well.
    7. Aux transmission cooler. Has anyone tried using the Summit Aluminum heat sink cooler? (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-331000)

    Seem reasonable?
     
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2021
  6. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

  7. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    The TV cable is totally different than the lockdown cable, it’s also critical to get the geometry correct on the TV cable.
     
    docgsx likes this.

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