Cracked frame?

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by duke350, Apr 19, 2021.

  1. duke350

    duke350 Well-Known Member

    I found this today while under my car. Looks to me like this 72 GS350 was wrecked at some point and the frame was welded. The weld has since snapped under the torque of my built 464. Can this be fixed? Or am I proper screwed?
    2C725D13-34AA-4A58-BAE9-5FDCD4A5B263.jpeg
     
  2. duke350

    duke350 Well-Known Member

    Here’s another picture. This is under the car, drivers side front wheel.
     
  3. duke350

    duke350 Well-Known Member

  4. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    I'm no welder but it looks like a crappy weld to me. It doesn't look like he had proper penetration and basically brazed it together.

    Personally, if you can get the suspension and lines out of the way, I don't see why a good welder couldn't make that better than new.
     
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  5. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    Ya, it can be fixed. clean it up good. V the crack and run a couple of passes with a 7010 rod.
     
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  6. 69 GS 400

    69 GS 400 Well-Known Member

    I would have the frame checked and corrected to spec before welding . Will need a wheel alignment after.
     
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  7. Buicksky

    Buicksky Gold Level Contributor

    Frame looks solid, I expect it can be fixed by a competent Welder. Some of those factory welds are less than optimum. I believe someone has repaired it before with out the proper skill set.
     
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  8. Nailhead in a 1967

    Nailhead in a 1967 Kell-Mnown Wember

    The weld isn't cracked, it's the area next to the weld.
     
    sean Buick 76 likes this.
  9. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Looks like its been there for awhile.
    Your cast iron block would crack before the steel frame would.
     
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  10. duke350

    duke350 Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the replies gents! I’ll have it checked out by a friend who’s a welder in town. I’m happy to hear it can be fixed and doesn’t require me swapping frames. That would surly be a daunting task for me.
     
  11. duke350

    duke350 Well-Known Member

    Can someone at their leisure, snap a picture of what “right looks like” please? I’m trying to compare my damage to one that’s factory correct and it will help when showing this to the guy who will do the work.
     
  12. B-rock

    B-rock Well-Known Member

    Request your welder put a fish plate over the crack. That would be the proper and strongest repair. It will require a bit more work but a simple weld will not hold up. It cracked for a reason. and a new weld will crack again if that spot is not properly prepped.
     
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  13. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Heres my '71 GS 350 frame, hope it helps you.
    IMG_1617.JPG IMG_1618.JPG IMG_1619.JPG
     
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  14. 436'd Skylark

    436'd Skylark Sweet Fancy Moses!!!!!

    Looks like a popcorn weld with no penetration from here..
     
  15. duke350

    duke350 Well-Known Member

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  16. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    I had a similar issue with a broken frame due to too much engine torque and I removed the engine and a pro welded things up nice. BLM issues after that. As seen a weld may be strong however sometimes the heat damaged the metal beside the weld and that’s where things fail.
     
  17. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    To get in there and prep and do it correctly will require some disassembly,..grinding the fisher price weld off,...groove it 50% of the material thickness,...then a plate needs to be fabled to extend at least an inch in all directions possible,..3/8 puddle welds on on the sides with 1/2 in long stitch welds with 1/2 gaps between each.

    Think of metal crack repair as a broken bone if you make repair and its stronger than the surrounding area you actually have created a stress point on each side if the repair. Thats why cracks appear beside a welded crack,...if its not done as described that will be all that happens,...it will take a good while but it's going to happen,..thats a very high stress area,...the engine didn't cause the failure btw,...as cool as it sounds to say it didn't,...vehicle weight during turning,.cornering and surface condition absorbsion caused it,. .its actually a somewhat common area to crack as is behind the lca mount
     
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  18. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Right on:cool:
     

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