Crankshaft Seal Removal and Gasket Kit Question

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by captainamerica, Apr 9, 2022.

  1. I have a 1971 Skylark with a 350 and I'm in the process of replacing the timing chain. I got a gasket kit and there is one gasket I don't understand. I have three questions:

    #1 When I removed the timing cover I did not remove the fuel pump so I think the fuel pump eccentric got stuck on the cam shaft. I was able to get it off without much damage but now after doing some reading, I understand that I was supposed to remove it. So my question is, should I remove it before reinstalling it or does it matter anymore at this point?
    #2 The crank seal. I believe its the original crank seal seems like it is a waxy rubbery material. The one from the gasket kit is plastic. I'm a little nervous about removing the old one, from what I understand I'm supposed to knock it out of the timing cover from the front with a punch and hammer. I assume I'm going to throw the old one away so it doesn't matter if I damage it right? Is there any special I need to do to install the new one, or special orientation, etc... I'm just going coat it with motor oil and knock it in with a rubber mallet?
    #3 The gasket kit came with a smaller o-ring, maybe about the size of a fifty-cent piece, anyone know where that goes? Seems a little to small for the distributor or crankshaft. I'm just worried about buttoning it up and then finding that I needed to put it somewhere.

    #4 Bonus Question: is the distributor supposed to have a gasket where it sits on top of the timing chain cover? I didn't see one when I pulled it out. ???

    The gasket kit came with some other gaskets, I don't plan on using oil pump, fuel pump, maybe...
     
  2. 69WILD

    69WILD Ron

    Fuel pump should be removed before reinstall cover. Use the new gasket for it.

    Replace the crank seal. I used a large socket to remove old one and a different socket to tap in the new one.
     
  3. 69WILD

    69WILD Ron

    Maybe the oring is for top of the distributor?
     
  4. 69WILD

    69WILD Ron

    You may want to make sure the crank is smooth where the new seal will ride on it. I used some fine sandpaper.
     
  5. Thanks, I'll check under the car to see if the distributor o-ring fell off. I don't want to put it on there if it doesn't belong. I know the distributor has to be seated properly, thanks. Do you know where I can get water pump bolts? Part of the reason I was doing this is because I had a broken one in the timing cover and now that I fixed it, I'm missing one.
     
  6. 69WILD

    69WILD Ron

    I don't believe the bolts are anything special. I use grade 8 from hardware store if I need one.
     
  7. 69WILD

    69WILD Ron

    Only torque 8-10 ft/lb
     
  8. When you said you use a large socket to remove/install the crank shaft seal? Are you spinning it off (counterclockwise?) or punching it straight out? Are there threads? I'm going out to the garage to look at that oring again. I'll take a photo and upload it.
     
  9. 69WILD

    69WILD Ron

    Straight out. Some people including myself put a bit of rtv on surface of metal when installing to insure no leaking. Also rtv a bit on harmonic balancer bevel for same reason.
     
  10. Added some photos,
    1. Crankshaft seal, I'm supposed to "punch" it out from the front side? So I'm going to take a hammer and a screwdriver and try and knock it out from the front of the cover? Or do I need a special socket to turn it out? Just want to make sure before I break something.
    2. New Crankshaft seal; its plastic and it has groves that make it look like it could screw in? Or do i just hammer it in with a rubber mallet from the inside of the cover?
    3. Mystery O-ring that came with the Timing Chain Gasket Kit, in the photo it sitting on the distributor, what do you think that o-ring is for?

    Thanks for the water bolt tip, I went to Ace Hardware and I found it right away. All the auto part websites didn't have anything that would "fit/fitment" the vehicle.
     

    Attached Files:

  11. 69WILD

    69WILD Ron

    New seal should have metal housing like the old one. New one looks like it doesn't have metal to seat into cover.
     
  12. 69WILD

    69WILD Ron

    Original oring looks to still be on distributor shaft just to the left of new one on your picture.
     
  13. 69WILD

    69WILD Ron

    Maybe the new crank seal is metal. It's hard to tell.
     
  14. 69WILD

    69WILD Ron

    Old seal doesn't come out easily. I used a screwdriver and a hammer but the correct tool is a seal remover i believe. Just be careful not to scare your aluminum cover.
     
  15. 69WILD

    69WILD Ron

    Give me a call if you want. 219-207-6096
    Ron
     
  16. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    NOT used

    No gasket, the base of the distributor sits flat against the timing cover.
    Ignore the flat copper gasket also in the gasket set, its NOT used
     
  17. Thanks for the tips, I managed to get the old crank seal out (2 piece) and the new seal in (1 piece plastic). New timing chain is super tight. I had a hard time getting the oil pan gasket to stay centered while putting on the timing chain cover, so I just smothered the outside in RTV and I'm hoping for the best. The only other thing I'm worried about is the oil pump prime, I plan on breaking the handle off a screwdriver and spinning the thing inside the distributor hole. Wish me luck. Sun was going down, couldn't find my bolts (rolled off somewhere), neighbor came over to talk and my gasket sealer was drying up, completely stressed out...good times.
     
  18. 69WILD

    69WILD Ron

    You can also fill oil pump cavity through oil pressure sending port with a squirt bottle or tube. Replace sending unit and spin with your drill. Should prime easier.
     
  19. 69WILD

    69WILD Ron

    It would be better to use the correct priming tool or at least put a plastic tube around your screwdriver so you don't mar up the aluminum while spinning with your drill.
     
  20. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Another old trick, used distributor shaft + drum brake spring to maintain alignment.

    Forcing the tapered end of the spring over the shaft and letting the tail lock into the pin hole means no worries of losing the spring.

    Avoid pressing down while priming to keep the gear from scoring the aluminum oil filter housing.

    Oil Primer.jpg

    Devon
     

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