1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

F Body sway bar bushings

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by chris sworik, Mar 31, 2024.

  1. chris sworik

    chris sworik Well-Known Member

    Hi everybody, quick question on bushings. I know this was talked about before but, I could not find it in during any searches. I am installing an F body 1 1/4" sway bar in my 72 skylark. Want to go poly, but, am confused with what length of end link bushings I need for this bar and application. Looking for black bushings. A part number or application would help out alot. Thanks, Chris.
     
  2. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    I have a set in the garage I'm going to put on my car. The old ones are pretty mangled from my spirited corner carving. Best I remember they are longer than the stock ones because you need to move the bar up a bit to get out of the way of the tie rod end. It will take me a day or two to get out there. Perhaps someone will chime in sooner.
     
  3. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    You don't want anything to hit and the effective sway rate is maximized when the endlink, and sway arm are 90 degrees to each other. If I remember correctly, the bigger bar and bushing moves the bar lower so a shorter link is better, but as Greg pointed out, it might interfer with the steering. Make sure to turn the bolts on the connectors on tie rods away from the bar.
     
    knucklebusted likes this.
  4. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    Yes, that is a requirement. I have all my tie rod adjuster bolts turned to the bottom so they don't scrub the sway bar in turns.

    I looked and can't find the box or where I ordered it from. I've had them a while. I'm 90% sure they are factory 70s Trans Am replacements.

    They are right about 3.5" on the spacer/barrel between the washers for the bushings. I always install them bolt from the top, nut on the bottom. That way, if they work loose, you only lose the nut and the bottom washer/bushing.
    [​IMG]
     
    12lives likes this.
  5. chris sworik

    chris sworik Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the info. My concern was the proper angle. Path forward is, order the 1 1/4" bushings. Mount the bar and take some measurements. Then order the end links. Wanted to order everything at once or as a kit. I have a set of Moog end links for stock application and can't believe how long they are. Just surprised there are no part numbers posted for an old cheap upgrade. Will keep everyone posted. Chris.
     
  6. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    How long is the big center barrel on the ones you have? If they are about 3.5" they will work.
     
  7. chris sworik

    chris sworik Well-Known Member

    OK, have a path forward. Got home, my original stock replacement barrel is 3 1/4". The bolt were 7 3/4". I decided to go with the poly end links with a 2 5/8" barrel length. Will post the results on weekend.
     
    knucklebusted likes this.
  8. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    You can always use your old barrels if they rub. There should be more than 1/2" of extra thread.
     
  9. RoseBud68

    RoseBud68 Well-Known Member

    Greg, How close is that top sway bar to the frame? I have an Atco 1-1/4 bar that is rubbing on the frame. End link have been cut down to 3.5" too.
    I don't think i could go any shorter on the end links.
     
  10. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    It's a factory T/A 1.25" bar and it isn't as close to the frame as it is to the tie rod adjuster bolts.
     
    RoseBud68 likes this.
  11. chris sworik

    chris sworik Well-Known Member

    Hi, just following up with this post, sorry for delay. Installed 1 1/4" TA sway bar. Ordered Energy Suspension 9.5165G sway bar bushings. (1 1/4", greaseable and in black) End link kit ordered was Energy Suspension 9.8117G (2 5/8" sleeve length). I had issues with the fitment on passenger side with tie rod adjuster sleave contact and parallel bar and control arm alignment. Ended up using a double washer on each side of barrel to extend barrel length 1/4". The results were, no contact and a parallel bar. So in my application, 9.8118G would have been the better kit. However. as stated above, you can cut down the barrel from a longer supplied kit.
    Went in for a front end alignment, no issues. Just a worn out steering box. Grand Cherokee quick ratio box to be installed. That will be another post once I fix the leak. lol.
     
    RoseBud68 and knucklebusted like this.
  12. RoseBud68

    RoseBud68 Well-Known Member

    Thank Chris for that update. Have a T/A 1-1/4 sway bar being pick up for me at BG, Hopping this one will not rub the frame like the other Atco bar
    did.
     
    knucklebusted likes this.
  13. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    Do you have any pics of that bar? I'd be interested in seeing it. If it made the trip to BG, we could compare it to my two cars 1.25" bars.
     
  14. RoseBud68

    RoseBud68 Well-Known Member

    Greg, I have the bar in the Garage. Not going to BG, Have a few friends that are and are picking up parts for me.
    I can get pics but its going to look like any other 1-1/4 bar.
     
    knucklebusted likes this.

Share This Page