What did you have to do to the cross member to fit the Trans? I'm getting things ready for a 4l60e into my 68 GS
post #28, had to move the mounts back. I added extensions to the factory mounts. My frame is a 67GS so I have the boxed frame. I don't know what the 68 frame is like but the t400 rubber trans mount, crossmember and yoke all worked for me.
I swapped out the straight fittings for the 45 degree socketless aeroquip fittings. much cleaner flow of the lines into the frame. I also installed the fitted 2000 degree covers to protect them from the collectors. Almost ready for the body to go on.
Been working on the Shiftworks conversion shifter. Not as easy as It may seem but not impossible. The shift key for there shifter kit is backwards for the 67 gs400. granted Shiftworks says it's for 65/66 skylark and they look very similar. I was told it would work. customer service wasn't much help. Shiftworks does not make a kit for the 67 so... you'll see it here first. I will need to cut and weld their key plate to the existing shifter. other then that it's still a good kit. I also completely restored the center console and I couldn't be happier. I will post pics after I get it done. (Tonight I hope) I have a plan :idea2:
Notice something wrong ? Shift lever pulled back and in Park position This was my first cut but ended up taking off more a couples of welds and were good Looks almost factory but now it's for a 4L80e
The selector looks factory but with OD This is the complete console I restored down to the orange paint on the tech needle.
Looking good! Let me know if you still need another engine hoist (and another pair of hands, if I can manage) to help with putting the body back on.
The shifter looks excellent. What are you doing about your speedometer? I read there are mechanical and electrical adapters. Bruce Roe
Hi Bruce, yes this is the link for the speedo adaptor. pricey buy worth it to use the factory speedo. http://www.dakotadigital.com/index....ct_id=886/category_id=-1/mode=prod/prd886.htm
Well...So much for the Shiftwork cable system. the cable is short, the key plate was for a 1966 and I would have to modify the entire kit to make it work. I pulled the linkage from the GS400 and restored it. It looks like this will work much better then the Shiftwork. I will try to return the kit as the owner claimed it's would work on the 67. I will pay for the key and the plastic selector plate. I sure hope Shiftworks agrees.
An update on the Shiftworks kit. Herb (owner) has agreed this kit won't work and is refunding me for the portion of the kit I can't use. I agreed to pay for the detent plate that I cut up and the selector plate for the console. Both of us disappointed that it just won't work.
I haven't updated in a while now. been doing body work. talked to the drive shaft builder today thinking I can complete the drive train with the missing link. Nope...he recommends having the body "ON" the frame prior to measuring. I have time to wait so there is more money I can't spend.
The body went on but not without some modification to the trans tunnel. we had to massage the passenger side for the cooler lines fittings. a little more by the tailshaft. on the driver side we had to massage out for the shift arm but may need to modify the shift arm a bit to get the shift points to match up with the indicator. also had to rebend the long shifter bar to avoid the input connectors. lastly we shimmed the body with 1/4" spacers. Not as bad as I thought it might be. I'll try to get pics of the factory linkage.
the body is on and everything clears. Todays mission was to hook up the stock 67 shifter and linkage. The bottom line on this is it works very nice. a few bends on the connecting rod and it was a complete assembly. however the index was off by quite a bit. here's what I did. First I had to learn how to drill hardened steel. you can see regular bits don't work. masonry bits cut right thru. This hole ended up being to tight. fortunately I had a spare so I guinea pigged this one. I slotted the prototype and welded a washer in different locations until finding the sweet spot. I marked, drilled and welded / filled the keeper piece. I ended up marking a center point 3/16" below the original hole. the tip here is to weld in the original hole before drilling the new one. your going to want some material on that side for a clean hole. hind site being 20/20 And it done. every gear slots in perfect and no interference...yet. controller goes in on this side.
This is the flexible dipstick for the transmission. The fit was perfect. I was very impressed with the quality of the part. I chose the firewall mount over the bellhousing because the A/C box would block out access. Mounting location TBD
Ran the E-brake cable tonight. Moving the trans cross member back really got in the way of this system. It's not exactly pretty but it works perfect and is out of the way of everything. I don't like it rubbing the crossmember so any feedback or alternate solutions welcome. I could extend the threaded adjustment rod and shorten the cable. Pulled tight let loose
It comes with a filler tube. you can see it in the package. makes it easy to get the funnel in. it does take forever to fill as the tubing ID is a lot smaller.
