Has anyone seen this before? This was cyls 4 and 8, all others were fine. The head gasket is oval shaped at the top. And it looks like there is a center "ring" which retained it's size but the metal overlay stretched and pushed outward. The combustion imprint on the block showed a matching bulge. It looks like combustion was contained with no leakage. This was with Felpro 1125 gasket, 10.7 CR, Al heads, ARP head bolts, block wass decked.
I've seen it on one of my regular head gasket engines, Fel Pro or Victor. Just too much cylinder pressure, a little too much timing or maybe a not enough octane. I've already pushed it out completely when I screwed up with way too much timing and then running the car at the strip. These days all my good engines run the TA "Orange Crush" gaskets which are now "White". For being decked that block looks very smooth. Maybe those gaskets need a little tooth. I forgot about the bearing problem. Chance that it was pounding the bearings if it was too much cylinder pressure from knock.
Where you using new fasteners/ bolts? Did you pre-check each head bolt hole to confirm that the screwed in with normal finger force? Was there the needed oil film under each head bolt and washer if you where using such? Sometimes the accepted.002" allowed for deck straightness is just too much in regards to thin widths of gasket thickness in areas like the especially if coolant flow in that area of the block and deck is restriction due to design.
No, did not re torque after heat cycles. Only the TA multi step cold torque procedure for the AL heads.
That TA head gaskets have a cold sealer on them, and they are the only ones that really require the 3 step process at initial assembly. I have went to re-torquing all head bolts, regardless of gasket type after at least 2 complete heat cycles. I had an issue with one set of those 1125 gaskets some years back, which prompted that procedural change, and have had no problems since. This motor has just enough head bolts to get by, so torque is critical to clamping the head in place, and keeping the gaskets where they should be, and not leaking. JW
Jim, I have 1500 miles on engine since getting it back together with standard fel pro head gaskets, should I still do a re-torque? Thanks Al
Did you use the blue FelPro 8494 PT? Those are called Perma Torque and claim they don't need retorquing. That's what I used and I haven't retorqued since assembly and installation 6 years ago. Maybe I'm just lucky.
It won't hurt Al... Crack them an 1/8 turn, and then pull them back to full torque. If your curious, put a ink dot on the head, and then on the bolt right next to it, and see if it ends up in the same plaee. JW
Thanks Jim, I’ll re-torque. Engine is running great, just some annoying oil seepage around oil pump/ oil filter area I need to address. Thanks Al
Al, Look carefully at the front of the oil pan. That area is very hard to seal. It will look like the pump gaskets are leaking, but it's really the front of the pan and the air flow moves the oil to the pump area. Been there, done that.
This bolt leak stopped with a copper washer with indian head sealer on both sides .. soon im going to do the same on the front of the oil pan bolts
It is true. My car had a bad rear intake china wall seal for many years and kept the underside coated in oil. I attribute my solid floorboards to that leak.