So if I understand you, the blower is removed? So there's no heat or defrost? If I understand that right, that heater core literally does nothing, even after its been replaced? If that's true, I would bypass it until I had time to dig into the whole mess. One and done....
You have the box on the inside. The core goes in that. See Brett's pictures. You can replace it with the one you ordered. It will throw off some heat. Or you can bypass the core either by hooking the two hoses together (which requires a coupling) or hook the 3/4 hose into the block as I said earlier. The power to the blower seems to have been cut off. You might be able to connect power to it and blow air through the core into the car for better heat. Is the blower just flopping around or is it bolted down? Also you need to buy a service manual and a chassis manual. One shows how to fix things and the other shows you how they go together. They are available in digital or paper.
Also, is the carpet soaked? You need to remove the passenger side sill plate, the kick panel (you can just loosen it) and pull back the carpet and backing so it can dry. If you have a small fan or blower to aim at it that will help.
The fan is just flopping around. Not bolted down. I will find a coupling and hook the hoses together for now. What size and materual of coupling do you recommend?
It is possible to partially open a small hole (with a hole saw) in the wheelhouse to access that bolt. Cut only about 330 degrees of the circle, flop open the sheet metal, do your work, flop it back closed and seal or even weld up the hole. Just another method I devised a million years ago before the internet; amusingly a very similar technique was employed by first owner of my current car - also a million years ago (Actually I suspect a shop did it). If interested let me know and I'll give more details and even shoot a picture. It works on A/C or non A/C cars.
Brad is referring to a stud on the heater core box that sticks into the engine bay and is behind the wheel inner fender. Brett used the fancy ratchet to get his, you can cut the hole as Brad described, or you can cut out the stud. Don't worry about that until you get ready to install your new heater core. Brett may have better advice, but I think you will need a hose coupling 5/8" in size and two hose clamps. Like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-5-8-in-Barb-Brass-Splicer-Fitting-800089/300096112
I would love to see that picture. I am guessing this spares you the take apart on the fender? Or some of it?
Camaro (same idea): http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/HY/hybridownertech/2013-01-04_042008_heatcorerepl.pdf - photo # 7 Buick: http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/tips-on-heater-core.327142/
OK - I'll get you a photo and some measurements; and yes - it does save the trouble of the fender pull. I still own the hole saw I used back in about 1987 to do this job on my GSX - I'll get a measurement of that since the hole in my current car is bigger than necessary.
So this is the hole in my wheelhouse as cut by someone else. The hole saw I used on my previous car is 1.75 inch bi-metal hole saw. I cut a perfect hole about 330 degrees around and just folded back the flap, got to the nut for the removal and reinstall, and then folded the flap back over. As already mentioned you could easily seal it then with a piece of Flexseal tape or similar. That edge of hole to edge of fender is taken close to level at 13.5 inches and I think in an unmolested wheelhouse you'll probably see some similar stamping marks and machine screw holes. If you want more detail I'd probably be willing to pull the tire over the weekend and get some better photos. I last used this hole in 2008 when the engine was last out and I preemptively replaced my own heater core.
At this point, i am going to just bypass the core for now. I cannot find a 3/4 - 5/8 coupling to connect the hoses to. I would like to loop the hoses instead of just going to the block. Anyone know where i can get a coupling to put the 3/4" hose on one end and the 5/8" on the other?
Mine had rubber caps on the end of each outlet, which was then hidden by the hoses. It looked functional but definitely wasn't.
The coupling you need is like the the one I posted. The 3/4" hose will seal to the 5/8" size. Why are you making this harder? I doubt you will find a transitional coupling.
i can take the hoses off the core on the engine side and connect them together to bypass the core for now, till I figure out what all i need? 9apps cartoonhd
So i disconnected them and looped them. Im not thrilled at the hoses laying in the engine bay. I may try to loop the one hose back to the block. Question though, can i just take the hoses off all together and put a plug fittin in the two block locations and eliminate the hoses completely for now?
