I've noticed somthing with my transmission and I'm not sure if it's supposed to do it or not. The car is only using the third gear it seems like. It starts on first and then quickly shifts into second like at five mph, then goes into third at 25 and the rest on the third. If I'm going lets say fourty and I floor it, I don't get that sharp downshift that I thought was normal. The cars rpm's increases but it doen't feel like i downshifts. Is this normal or is there some kind of adjustment done to it to keep it in third. The transmission was rebuilt just before I got the car about six months ago and a shift kit was installed. The car runs fine, but I'm just curious how the set up should be. I had an old Falcon from 78 and when you went about 40 with it and floored it, you got a sharp downshift and a squeeze against the seat. On the Buick it's more of just a sharp increase in the rpm's, but no real jump. Any suggestions are as usual most welcome. Have a nice weekend..
It's not downshifting. What trans do you have? TH400 has an electrical kickdown, TH350 uses a cable. Which is it?
When I stop the car and take off again, the car strarts over in first gear. You don't really think about it, since the car pulls pretty nicely in third, but it struck me that I never got that squeezed in the seat sensation when a car downshifts and accelerates.
It's a very simple system really. There is an electrical connection to the drivers side of the transmission. Some transmissions have 2 connections, the kickdown is the bottom or vertical connection. When this connector receives 12 volts, it energizes a solenoid inside the pan, and the transmission kicks down. 12 volts is passed down to the transmission from a sliding switch mounted on the gas pedal linkage. Start by looking at the wire at the transmission. It might have fallen off, or is damaged, it could be that simple. If not look at the gas pedal switch. It has 2 wires going to it. One wire should have 12 volts with the ignition switch in the run position. The other wire leads down to the transmission. Check for 12 volts with a voltmeter, or test light. Check for continuity between the gas pedal switch and the transmission connection with an ohmeter. You can also check the switch itself with the ohmeter. You can check the solenoid in the pan by appling 12 volts directly from the + post of the battery, to the connection at the transmission. Listen at the pan for a click when you touch a jumper wire to the connector. It's most likely a problem with the gas pedal switch, the wiring, or the solenoid. If it is the solenoid, you can get a replacement at a transmission shop. Installation is easy(2 bolts), but you have to drop the pan. The downshift system is very important. If it doesn't work, the transmission will not shift correctly at wide open throttle, it will shift low.
Thanks, I'll look into it next weekend, have some friends staying here right now, so I'm trying to keep my hands off the car. I find it interesting that the transmission shop that both rebuilt the transmission and sold me the car didn't check that when they did the work on it? Well, as I've found out, If you can do it yourself, do it yourelf. Cause you'll just have to re-do it anyway. ZZzz.... Thanks again :beer
Larry's reply was excellent and very detailed. Let me give you a layman's method of checking solenoid operation from the comfort of your driver seat. :Smarty: Switch your radio to AM and tune it between stations. Engine off, key on, mat the accelerator and release and listen for a click sound in the speakers. AM radios usually pickup the electromagnetic energy from the solenoid if it's functional.
Sounds really nice to be able to, but my radio got stolen about a month ago. I'm just going to start in one end and see where the link in the chain is broken. I wish there were those kinds of solutions for alot of the problems that come up, but by taking care of one at a time we'll get there in the end. Many thanks
