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Hurst competition plus

Discussion in 'U-shift em' started by 70staged, Jun 19, 2024.

  1. 70staged

    70staged Well-Known Member

    Have a hurst competition plus shifter in a 67 with muncie. Person before add the hurst along with the hurst linkage. I'm not a fan of the super short throws and neither is the owner. Would like to replace it but not sure what the best option out there is.
     
    70GREENROCKETS likes this.
  2. jmos4

    jmos4 Well-Known Member

    Hi,

    Have a competition shifter in my 65 and really never felt it was a short throw shifter.

    Factory 67 I believe was a Muncie shifter which to my understanding are rather sloppy. If you're shifter has a replaceable handle maybe try a longer or shorter one, may help, best bet grab the shifter mid handle and see if that's better or worse on the feel.

    Also a new shifter will take a bit to loosen up, also make sure all the linkage and pivots are lubed.

    Regards,
    Jim
     
  3. 70staged

    70staged Well-Known Member

    Linkage and everything is adjusted properly. I know you can possible adjust the stops, but the neutral left and right seems tight. The shifter had been cut, the reangled forward for whatever reason. I could be used to my 70 gs350 4 speed car also and that has the factory shifter. I'll dig into more over the next couple days.
     
  4. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    If it's tight left and right in neutral, it's in the shifter itself. Likely just gritty, dirty and dry as a bone.
     
  5. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

    This is my short throw back in the 70s. (Hurst made the Mr. Gasket shifter)
    And, yes, it was serious tight left right and front to back.
    Heavy spring load to right gate, diagonal 2nd to third, and a you had to really mean Reverse...

    (never missed a shift, and did the "Grumpy" at 7000)

    [​IMG]
     
  6. 70staged

    70staged Well-Known Member

    Well I think I might have found part of my issue. They welded on the handle just a little bit hahaha . Now if I knew how to post photos from this tablet
     
  7. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

    Check your messages.
     
  8. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

  9. 70staged

    70staged Well-Known Member

    Best replacement for this handle? Or better off buying whole new shifter. Or I’ll just buy the rebuild kit and a new shifter
     
  10. 70staged

    70staged Well-Known Member

  11. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    I would rebuild what you have and install a new handle receiver. You can either install an original handle receiver to accept a 5335 stick, or install a handle receiver that accepts an aftermarket bolt on chrome stick
     
    70staged likes this.
  12. 70staged

    70staged Well-Known Member

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIntidp_CohwMVW56DBx00WwG9EAQYASABEgL3w_D_BwE
    This is the rebuild kit correct? Where is the best place to find the correct looking 5335 handle as well as the handle receiver?
     
  13. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    I usually buy all my parts from Scott brokaw at shifterdoc.com. He sells everything including the handle recievers and is a wealth of knowledge.

    But yes, it looks like the right kit. I would replace the selector pin carrier as well. You also might need a shim or two from Paul cangialosi at 5speeds.com to get the clearance at .020
     
  14. 70staged

    70staged Well-Known Member

    Apparently the welded handle was possibly a factory weld according to shiftdoc. Ordered parts and rebuilt the shifter. Still not like the shifter that’s in my 70 4 speed but we will drive it for a little and see. Handle is angled wrong so that will need addressed over winter.
     
    12lives likes this.
  15. 70staged

    70staged Well-Known Member

    So the first photo is of the shifter in Neutral and the second photo is in 2nd or 4th don’t remember. The console is in the original location. Trans is a Muncie from a 68 Buick.
     

    Attached Files:

  16. 70staged

    70staged Well-Known Member

  17. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

    Incorrect shift rods, gear levers or adjustment.

    Disconnect the adjuster "buttons" so the shift rods are not connected to the three shifter arms on the transmission shifter forks studs.
    Center the shifter gear levers and pin with 1/4" allen wrench.
    See if the shift lever is now in the correct place for neutral, if it is, "drop fit" each rod moving the button fore or aft to the shifter arms.
    (You may need to back off the shifter stops.)

    When all rods are connected, remove the allen wrench and see if the shifter will shift in forward gears and reverse (with engine off).
    If everything works correctly, adjust the shifter stops.

    If the shifter lever is not correct with rods disconnected and the shifter "pinned" in neutral, the rods and/or the shifter arms are incorrect.

    You may be able to cut threads further on the shifter rods, or you may need different rods.

    Over the years, people get parts mixed up doing swaps, replacing parts with incorrect parts.
     
  18. 70staged

    70staged Well-Known Member

    With the photo the shifter bolt stops are not installed yet. The neutral position is about the same spot with everything hooked up.
     
  19. crash

    crash Well-Known Member

    Did you ever resolve this issue???
     
  20. 70staged

    70staged Well-Known Member

    Crash, haven’t had time yet. Been busy with other items since i talked/ got the part from you. I’m gonna try to work on the car durning Christmas break and I’ll let you know what the status is. Thank you for your help.
     

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