Installing a 200-4R in a 1970 GS, A Tutorial/Pictoral

Hi, Well, I've started my swap and thought I'd document for everyone to see. Here's the trans all ready to go with the TV cable and lockup switch installed. Sure is shiny and perty:

 

and the lockup switch on the passenger side. All it needs is a wire to the other side and the factory plug's #1 wire (up-left) and the other wire goes to the switch in the car. Then you need to put a ground from the factory plug somewhere.

 

Next is the factory floor shifter. A company called Shiftworks makes a complete kit for the swap. Costs about $250. Here's the shifter with the new plate:

 

This new plate just bolts in place of the old one. Simple as can be. Here it is re-installed in the car:

 

With the kit is a new shifter cable. Again, very easy to install. The only difference is the factory one is held in with spring clips and the new one comes with three short screws to attach it from underneath. The new cable is also slightly longer than the old, and kit comes with new shifter piece for the trans and all necessary clips and linkage.

 

I got the transmission all bolted up. Darn metric stuff. You'll need 10mm bolts to replace the 7/16" ones that bolt the rear of the trans to the mount. I did have to trim about 1/4" off of the front of the crossmember as it was REAL close to the trans pan I have on this thing. But it is a HUGE aluminum pan, so this may not be a problem with a stock pan.

Next I went to the carb. Here is an adapter that you will need if running a Holley and there is a similar one for a q-jet. It goes right on with one screw and jam nut. The throttle cable pops back on in the stock location and there is now a mounting tab for the TV cable.

Now the throttle cable/TV cable mounting bracket is another story. This is where some fabrication is needed. I bought the Holley one that is supposed to fit. I ended up having to cut it to move the holes for the cable up 1" and inward 3/4" to line everything up right. As soon as I get it back from being re-plated (with all of your hood latches :laugh: ), I'll post and continue on. Then it'll be connecting the new shifter cable to the trans.

The other problem I ran into was the rod that shows what gear your in on the column. When connected to the trans, it is now @3/4" short of sitting in it's bracket properly. I guess I'll have to shim the bracket out with a washer or two. Nothing serious. But these little things take time.

The driveshaft is also off to be redone as the yolk from the th400 is 30-spline and a 200-4R is 27 spline. Also, the trans was shorter just about 5/8". But I was told that the casting on the 200-4R's yolk is thicker and should make up the shortcoming. We'll see.

I will also post what my actual total was for everything so you can see what this can actually cost. I don't think I want the wife to see that total!! :spank: :Smarty: :rant:

 

I ran the numbers and here's what this thing is costing:

BR-F transmissions core - $200
Rebuilt with ALL the best goodies - $2000
9/11 converter from CK Performance - $575
Shiftworks shifter conversion kit - $125
Driveshaft redone - $125
New 11"x11"x1.5" auxiliary trans cooler - $78
Misc. (lockup switch stuff,TV cable,fluid,bolts) - $100

For a grand total of (OUCH!!) $3,203

Now my transmission was a big hit because I did get the best of everything: billet shafts, special drums, oversized bands, extra clutches, oversized aluminum pan with new rear filter/pickup, etc. Hopefully this thing will live a long time in my car. And the converter wasn't cheap either. But I only wanted to do this once.

 

Phil,
Are you going to run a pressure test when you get it going? I don't know what your tranny builder said but I did feel better when I did mine to know I had good pressure (lots of $$$$ that could die fast if wrong) Will be interested to see if you get the 4-1 downshift that I get. I also have a manual switch to lock up the converter for the highway because 4th lockup aroung town is a little rough.
Will be fun to compare how these setup are working.

 

[QUOTE=

Next I went to the carb. Here is an adapter that you will need if running a Holley and there is a similar one for a q-jet. It goes right on with one screw and jam nut. The throttle cable pops back on in the stock location and there is now a mounting tab for the TV cable.

Now the throttle cable/TV cable mounting bracket is another story. This is where some fabrication is needed. I bought the Holley one that is supposed to fit. I ended up having to cut it to move the holes for the cable up 1" and inward 3/4" to line everything up right. As soon as I get it back from being re-plated (with all of your hood latches :laugh: ), I'll post and continue on. Then it'll be connecting the new shifter cable to the trans.

The other problem I ran into was the rod that shows what gear your in on the column. When connected to the trans, it is now @3/4" short of sitting in it's bracket properly. I guess I'll have to shim the bracket out with a washer or two. Nothing serious. But these little things take time.


ther is a very good kit for the holley carb i used on my car from 200r4.com tv made easy great set up

also the rod that runs connected from your trans to the frame you dont have to modify. a rod from a late 80s caprice with a 200r4 fits perfect.

hope this info helps Dave H. :TU:

 

Just so people know, it is easy and very cheap to make a 2004R TC lockup in 4th gear only automatically. Here's how http://www.chevyasylum.com/tech/4thgear.html

I did have to change the pressure switch on mine($12.64), simple.

 

A late 80's caprice shift indicator rod? I'll have to call some bone yards and see if I can track one down. That might be a toughy around here though. A some of the yards have started crushing everything 89 and older.

My trans is setup with the lockup to lockup on it's own in 4th only at about 45 mph. The switch allows me to turn the lockup off, for when I'm at the track or cruising around town and don't want to be lumbering along at 1000 rpm's in 4th.

 

I used the tvmade easy setup also. Works good, not cheap and requires putting their spring in the transmission. I had to have custom setup on the throttle linkage (changed over to a Holly type) Now have a new Edelbrock and will have to make a few mods again.

I did not have any trouble with the rod from the frame to the trans but the gear selector link to the steering column geometry is not right and have it wired in the up position. Any solutions to this?

Would like more info on a vacuumn switch for the lockup. Don't know if it would work with my 413 cam but still interested.

 

Phil,

Thanks for this post.

The 200-4R is a great upgrade, but is often overlooked. These photos and your descriptions will help to enlighten folks about what exactly is involved, and hopefully encourage them to do this swap.

i

 

I agree. Thanks for posting all this information and pics as you move forward with this project. I'm looking at doing the same thing with my 69 and this helps me better understand everything I'll need and what to watch out for.

Between this and the latches getting done, 2 thumbs way up for Phil!

:TU::TU: :laugh:

 

Thanks for the info Phil. I need the lock switch too. I'm constantly downshifting from 4th to 3rd at around 60mph.

The shifter in mine is a four detent, so at the track you can wind it out in third through the chutes. Is your four or three?

 

That is the new 4 detent shifter plate.

 

I put a stock 200r4 in my 64 skylark last spring best thing i ever did, I used one from a 87 monte carlo and it works fine with a stock SBB but my 69 GS400 convert with the 455 Stage 1 wil need the trans you have put in I would like to know what numbers you get from it in at the track

ken

 

Oh, don't you worry. I fully plan to have this thing running right by Norwalk. Someone emailed me an article out of a GSX-tra where someone took a "stock" '70 Stage 1 that had run a best of 12.68. They swapped in a 200-4R and ran a 12.41. I'd love to see that kind of improvement.

 

Here's the next little "project" when putting one of these in, at least for me. The shifter rod bracket that bolts to the frame had to be moved out as the trans is slightly narrower and the rod just missed being in it's hole.

So I used 3/4" aluminum stock and created a shim and just bolted it back up with longer bolts. No biggie, just takes a little bit of time. Took the pic before getting the chassis black spray can out. No one will ever notice it. And it's easily put back to stock.

 

SOMEONE! :af: SOMEONE! :af: I like the pics of the process. Got my my core the other day. Good job!!! :beer :3gears: