So last weekend I was finally able to get my hands on a car I've wanted for quite some time. It's a '76 Regal coupe with the 350. It was my grandpas car. He bought it new and has garaged it it's whole life. He passed away a few years ago and my mom has had it and decided to let me have it now. It's about a 7/10 interior and exterior with 96k on the odo. Plans in the near future are to get some new tires on it and do a tune up. She's also leaking coolant from somewhere in the front of the motor. Has some oil leaks too but everything is so dirty I haven't really pinpointed anything yet. So this weekend I'm going to clean the engine off and see if I can locate the source(s). The cap doesn't really fit tight on the coolant overflow tank, like you can just pop it off without much trying. It stumbles off idle and then perks up. It's got the oil light on at idle most of the time. So trying to sort all that out as I have time. Trying to figure out what I can do to add some HP but it looks like I either have to port the factory iron heads or buy the TA ones. I definitely want to stick with the Buick engine as opposed to a swap but I had really been hoping I could do heads, intake, cam on it. Which I guess I can with the TA parts but man it would be a lot cheaper if I could just use some vortec heads lol!
Welcome! That’s a nice looking car. I don’t know if you have memories of it when he was using it regularly, but those are great riding and very comfy cars. As far as more power, take deliberate steps. First you need to do an oil and filter change and use a guage to verify oil pressure. If you truly have low pressure you either need a new timing cover or possibly bearings. If that checks out ok (or is fixed) then assess and fix the leak, check out all the belts and hoses, probably will need a timing chain and gear set, plugs, cap and rotor, maybe wires. Use AC Delco stuff-stay away from the bright colored zillion volt stuff. Once you’ve got it ‘fresh’, you want a well set up qjet (have that one rebuilt by one of the guys on here, or buy one from them. Don’t buy a parts store carb!) If it runs well and not rich or rough the carb can wait. You’ll want a well set up distributor to wake it up. Again, stick with the original if you have it or a good rebuilt one from a member. Avoid parts store junk. For details see ‘Larry’s power timing thread’. Running well and sharply tuned you may decide you have enough power. True dual exhaust without that restrictive pancake catalytic converter will help, but you’ll need a crossmember. ‘Test piping’ the converter will help power in the meantime. Steeper rear gears will give good bang for the buck. Maybe swap cams and converter. If you’re dead set on a lot more power, I’d plan on a full build with more compression, iron or aluminum heads, cam, converter and gears. (90k on it now, right? You probably should plan on transmission service (likely rebuild) with the added power. So, do you want to open your wallet a little and have a nice responsive comfy old car, or open it a lot and build your vision? (Or put a chevy truck engine in it and have a reliable belly button?). Remember, a lot of projects stall due to not knowing one’s limitations. Patrick
Welcome! ...and Patrick provides some real sound advice. Enjoy the adventure and keep us posted how the journey goes. -MIG
Yeah that's definitely sound advice, and I could have been a little clearer. Getting her tuned up and looking nice is the first priority. I have a few questions though if you dont mind. First off what weight oil should I run in this thing? As part of the tune up I had considered buying that TA distributor, the cheaper stock type one. Would that be worth it or stick to the stock one now and just change the cap and rotor? I don't understand these bias ply tires... whats a good 15" tire size in modern sizing? I think the carb definitely needs some work. I was going to look for someone local to tune it but if there are members here that can set it up I would be willing to do that. Or no I need to get a Q jet right? Or is that whats on there lol?
Should be a Rochester Quadrajet on there now. It will have 1705624(x) on it most likely. Post it (it’s stamped verically on the left side rear). Unless there’s someone local who really knows these carbs you’d be better off using guys discussed in ‘the mixing shop’. If the car is mostly original, I’d look at the cap and rotor, probably replace them, and be sure that the shaft inside the distributor can be rotated a few degrees and springs back when released. If it does that, keep it for now. I’d check your oil pressure with fresh 10-30 (non synthetic is fine). If the oil pressure is low (warm engine, accurate guage, less than 10psi per 1000 rpm) you may be able to bring it up with 15-40 but be aware that’s patching the problem. May work for years, though. The closest metric tire you’re likely to find is 215/75/15 or 225/70/15. Whitewalls are hard to find anymore, especially in a 70 series. It’d look really good on 15” chrome rallies and 225/70/15 white letters (in my opinion). The car looks great! Patrick
Cool man, thanks for your help. One of the first "mods" I want to do is guages lol. A tach, oil pressure, and coolant temp. Is there a good spot to hook up for the oul pressure?
http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/oil-pressure-sensor-location-350-4-bbl-68.66876/ Get good guages (Autometer for example). Use copper tubing or better yet an electric sending unit. DON’T use the plastic line. Patrick
Got her to the car wash today to get the road grime and salt off from 600 miles of trailoring. I think next weekend I'm going to do the oil change and pull the plugs to see what they look like. Cap and rotor and probably new front brakes. Cleaned up the engine a touch too but shes still pretty nasty lol. What is the purpose of this hose that goes from the exhaust manifold to the air cleaner, and can I remove it somehow?
Thats the warm air "stove" pipe. The round thing on top closes when its cold, and draws warm air around the exhaust manifold for better running when its cold. It looks like an OEM hose. Dont tear it up. All the new stuff is aluminum drier vent hose and looks sad. I did mine with a "Briz Pipe". I like the rigid look better.
You really want to verify the situation with the oil pressure, before driving the car too much, or you might be doing a lot more damage? Just my 2c
