I had planned on adjusting the front shoes out today. It holds fine with my foot on the brake and stops ok at the far end of the track. My brake peddle is on top and hard with no fade. Another friend said he had a similar problem when he installed one on is manual brake car. Ended up putting a booster on his to correct it. I don't wanna go that route.
I really like the horn button idea. would be great for a nitrous trigger too. have you tried pumping up the pressure a few times before linelocking? Just wondering if that helps avoid pushing thru. might give some additional data towards figuring the culprit. I know on my setup with front discs and power booster I needed to really stand on the brakes before locking up to stop the car pushing thru.
I recently got a regal which is my first car with line lock. I too was having the car roll on me, but I knew the line lock worked because the previous owner took me for a test drive when I was buying the car, and he did a nice long burnout with the lock engaged. My problem was I was not pumping the brakes, and not pumping them hard enough. You need to really stand on them before engaging the lock. Worked good for me after that.
Later, when Im done with work for the day I'll adj the fronts and try again pumping it really hard before I engage the lock. heres a pic of my install.
I'm not an expert but I think you are going about it wrong, a modern master cylinder is actually 2 master cylinders together, if on fails the other works. The front reservoir does not activate the front brakes, As I remember it the large capacity side that is the primary and the small is the back up. By installing the line lock inline you are activating both front and back brakes. Part of the reason for pumping or rolling is that you may be locking the secondary side of the master cylinder.
This is incorrect. By design the front and rear circuits are isolated and operate independently from each other. If the front circuit fails, the rear circuit will still operate the rear brakes, but will do nothing for the fronts, and vise versa. The only "backup" is the fact that the circuits are separate. The likelihood of both circuits failing is remote. Devon
I had thought the same thing but I traced the lines down before I opened up the system and the front part of the master does in fact operate the front brakes I did confirm this after by lifting the front of the car and locking the tires then trying to spin it. They didn't move until i lifted my finger from the horn button. Who's bright idea was it to not put a access in the front drums to adj the brakes? Anyway I pulled the drums. They weren't bad but could use a refreshing turn on the lathe. The wheel cyl on the L had a small leak and the shoes were slightly wet. Since its apart I will just throw a quick brake job in there and try again. I made my own adj slot also.
A buddy said He used a micro switch on the throttle linkage to fire the No2 at WOT. As long as you foots on the floor its opened if the system has been armed by the safety switch. I thought I could do 1 better by using the trans kick down switch which is already in place and wired. I don't really need it for the trans in this application.
That was not good,let me try to redeem myself, the master cylinder connects to the distribution block, the valve in the middle recognizes equal pressure for the front and back systems and the brake light stays off. You step on the brakes and shut off the front master cylinder(line lock), release the pedal, fluid pressure drops on the rear system, the valve in the distribution block shifts to the low pressure side (thinking a system failure) illuminating the light while reducing the pressure in the front system hence the roll. I am not sure if by doing this if the rear brakes engage or fluid for the rear brakes is just returned to the master cylinder. This pressure drop is why the line lock should be placed after the distribution block.
I have a better understanding of what you're trying to get across. For what it's worth, the NHRA rules state "If brake system includes a differential pressure switch, line-lock installed on front brakes must have solenoid installed after the differential switch." For early four wheel drum cars like mine which have no differential pressure switch - only a distribution block with a pressure warning light, it's a moot point; but if a car has a differential switch or combo valve, NHRA wants to see the MC feed the front of the valve, having you block one of the valve's front outluts and attach the line lock to the other output before teeing of to left & right front. From what I've been reading, a lot of folks with combo valves still plumb their line locks against the rules (i.e. the easy way) but have good results anyway. Devon
Turned drums, fresh shoes and properly adjusted. Still pushes. I stand on the pedel then lock it down. It holds better but not enough to break the rear tires loose on dry concrete.:Smarty: maybe I WILL have to go to disk. Maybe I just wont worry about it.o No: I guess if I find a disk set up cheap enough I would go down that path. Wadda yas think?
With slicks net need the water box. with my 28 x 10 slicks if you stand on the brakes and floor it you will go straight till you bounce around in the ditch. to much hook for dry ground. Try it with water
Shouldnt be a prob, lots of drag cars running with 4 drums. Are your front tires locking or are they being pushed when locked? That will help determine whether your brakes are the issue or ur slicks just have too much bite. Standing on the brakes is good, but you still have to pump a few times before you stand on it. Do you have a big cam that robs you of power brakes at low vacuum? If so you should pump a bit longer.
Are your front tires locking or are they being pushed when locked? That will help determine whether your brakes are the issue or ur slicks just have too much bite. Good point to check this out. I have watched a 80's mustang do that at my track for years. The driver could push the car from the water to the line with the line lock on because his front tires are thin drag tires. The line lock may be doing it's job, but you have to use it right too.
I think I said the same thing twice.... ou: But you know what I mean. Are they locking, or are they rolling with the linelock engaged....?
The tires are rolling with the lock engaged. I have manual drums on this car. Just for grins and giggles + to rule out any improper instalation I lifted the rears, locked the brakes and let off the peddle while in D. The rears turned just fine while the front were locked. It just may be that I do need it to be in the water to get them spinning. My thoughts on that were if it really had that much traction it would be sliding the fronts up the driveway not rolling.
Not trying to hijack this thread I picked up a Hurst Roll control for my 72 and the inst say to ru my lines to the selonid from the proportioning valve front side to the selonoid in and plug one side of the prop, valve front and tee two front lines together and run the other and feed them from the prop,vale front left open , My question is the selonoid has 1 in and three outs why cant i run my in from the master front and use one out to the proportioning valve front side in to the selonoid and use 2 of the out and not 1 as they recomend ? is that right? Dah I re read the intire post , now i understand . Sorry dumb question !!
Briz, I had the same issue when I mounted the linelock solenoid in the same place I had the same issue. After mounting it below the master cylinder it worked perfect.
