Thats fine get that rubber seal out and use rtv,..cut the tip to about 3/16 opening and back the sealer back up on itself as you move down the wall building it up 1/4 tall
To use the rubber seals, you generally need from .190- .200" gap between the intake and block rails when you mock up the intake before assembly. The AM&P pan takes up some room there. From your last picture, it looks like the rubber seals were being pushed out. The rubber seals are great if you can use them. No RTV is required with them except at the corners where they tuck under the heads.
I would recommend that you don't use RTV on the rails. I only use Permatex "the right stuff" on end rails. Years of chasing end rail leaks, which totally disappeared when I switch to this sealer was a lessen well learned. No problem with that much gap with this sealer, it has a much heavier body than RTV. I use don't use any RTV in my builds. RTV is too slippery, and adheres poorly. Seal cork and paper gaskets with the appropriate gasket dressing. I like permatex aviation sealer for used parts or anything with pitting, and permatex hi tack for new parts. Permatex number 1 on frost plugs. I still will use the rubber end seals, on resto motors with uncut or very lightly cut decks and heads, with iron intakes, where the gap is right around .200 and consistent side to side. Then just a dab of the right stuff at the corners. JW
Thanks all! I have about a half a tube of The Right Stuff. I think it should be enough for the end rails and gap.
We learn more from our mistakes than our successes. Some of my best mistakes haven't even been made yet! Hold my beer....
Thx. Jim. If not already somewhere, this along with some other sealing details, tricks, do's & don'ts, front & rear main seal advice (350 & 455), chemicals, etc. would be a great "sticky."
IIRC, last time I had the luxury of putting them in w/o the front sheetmetal installed & it still wasn't easy.
At least the lower center holes on the headers were slotted. I put the bolt in first then slid the header over the bolt. Then it was 1/16 turns as tight as i could get it with a 6" box end wrench. Good times Anyone who thinks they're going to torque spec all the header bolts are sadly mistaken!
