1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

My '72 Skylark Pro Street Build

Discussion in 'Race car chassis tech' started by NotMyPants, Sep 6, 2014.

  1. NotMyPants

    NotMyPants Well-Known Member

    I want to expand the factory tubs and make it as clean and factory looking as possible.
     
  2. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Was hoping you were, much cleaner look
     
  3. NotMyPants

    NotMyPants Well-Known Member

    Exactly. Like I was saying to Steve im going for a original super stock/vintage pro street look. Make it look like it was almost a factory special race order. I would love to even keep the factory fuel tank but it wont fit. Ive actually been looking at the rear section to see if I could rework it so it could take it. I don't see it happening though unless im blind.
     
  4. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    1st gen Fbody tank may work
     
  5. NotMyPants

    NotMyPants Well-Known Member

    I just looked at the measurements. Wont work.
     
  6. Wildcat55

    Wildcat55 Well-Known Member

    Where are the bars from the back half cross member forward? I used the s&w frame kit too I was told they dont hold much hp I never had a problem
     
  7. NotMyPants

    NotMyPants Well-Known Member

    Not on yet. Still brainstorming the rest of the design now that ill be boxing the frame aswell.
     
  8. NotMyPants

    NotMyPants Well-Known Member

    Steve, do you have any shots of the tubs? Im guessing you went after market and didn't extend the stock wheelhouses like im going to try and do. If I extended the wheelhouse the same width as an aftermarket tub would the tub still have more room due to a even curve and not angled and bent like the stock wheehouse? I was thinking about this the other day. I want to sink the car down and am worried now the stock wheelhouse might not give as much clearance as a full aftermarket tub of the same width.
     
  9. Steve Reynolds

    Steve Reynolds SRE Inc

    I'm sure I have some on my home PC, but unfortunately I'm not home. I'll try to post a few this weekend when I'm home.

    And yes, I'm using aluminum tubs. Not sure, but if you use widened stock tubs you may have trouble getting the car to sit very low. Put the body back in place and have the car at "ride height". Get the tires/wheels you are going to be using and put them in place at the proper wheelbase, (or a little longer wheelbase will fit the wider tries better), then start fitting and measuring the stock tubs to see if they'll work for you. By going through this procedure you can also determine the proper axle width for your rear axle housing and axle shafts.

    Thanks,
    Steve
     
  10. BWINN519

    BWINN519 Big B

    Nice.. Jellous of your welding skills, (plenty of mechanical) but none in the welding feild, love to have rear mini tubbs
     
  11. Guy Parquette

    Guy Parquette Platinum Level Contributor

    Awesome job!
    By no means is my back half done as nice and as on the level of yours and Steves...Hell I never even took mine off the frame to do. And did it back in the early 90's when I was younger. I'm almost embarrassed of how it looks. But proud of my work since then as my "Reynolds" (some pun intended Steve!) car turned out nice.

    That being said, I was looking for the same outcome as you...I think. I was going for a stock factory look. Wanted a stock gas tank and the stock interior including the stock back seat. Mine is narrowed a little over 10"...maybe not as much as most.

    I narrowed the gas tank 11" by sectioning it. Took a new tank and cut off each end or side, then cut out
    5.5" from each side of the middle then welded and brazed the ends back on. I Intended for the stock straps to cover the welds and it did.
    For the tubs I used at the time Chevelle repro inner tubs (I'm sure by now there are Buick Skylark repo's) and fabricated them in...by memory, I think I sectioned that as well.
    For the seat I had to cut and bend some of the frame but it did fit back in well.

    Again, nice job!
     
  12. Guy Parquette

    Guy Parquette Platinum Level Contributor

    Oh...I also used the stock rear frame section. Again by taking out 11" from the center then welding back together along with a tube for the top shock mounts and the cage tied in.
     
  13. Steve Reynolds

    Steve Reynolds SRE Inc

    Guy, don't be modest....... your X was the inspiration for my X!!!


    I really like the idea of using factory tubs if possible.... definitely gives it more of a stock feel, vs. Drag car.


    A few tub/interior pics.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. ronbz455

    ronbz455 Big Butz Racing

    Steve that is nice work but I figured you had 4 link and a 12 Bolt.
     
  15. Steve Reynolds

    Steve Reynolds SRE Inc

    Nope...... ladder bars and a nine inch Ford with all the good stuff.
     
  16. NotMyPants

    NotMyPants Well-Known Member

    Thanks man. I was actually thinking about trying that with the tank. But ive changed the rear now so it really wont fit. Ill be posting pics soon.

    Nice work. Exact type of pics I was looking for!

    Thanks!
     
  17. NotMyPants

    NotMyPants Well-Known Member

    Ill do that.
     
  18. sriley531

    sriley531 Excommunicado

    Man, this is on my bucket list! Keep the pics coming, I'm loving your work so far, very cool and well done.
     
  19. NotMyPants

    NotMyPants Well-Known Member

    [​IMG]

    Well I reworked the rear. Originally I left it open because I wanted to see if I could run a stock tank but I cant. This is way more rigid. I extended the frame rails all the way to the rear and moved the side beams back couple inches. I should have it painted up tomorrow. Then I can start on boxing the frame.
     
  20. ronbz455

    ronbz455 Big Butz Racing

    Let's do mine next!
     

Share This Page