20/50 is a very very thick oil. What were the oil temps b4 the passes. It takes awhile for that oil to warm up and actually flow well. It is possible that if the oil temps were too low you physically stared the back of oil getting there. Water temp and oil temp don't follow each other. I was very surprised when I put a temp gauge on how long it too for oil to warm up, and with my aluminum pan how quickly it will cool off in colder weathet
Here's a complete overview/breakdown of how oils are rated... What Bruce said above is basically correct, but there is a lot more to it that that. https://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto_oils/oil_viscosity_explained.htm Pay close attention to the VI index.. it is the reason I will not touch Valvoline VR oils.. horrible drops in oil pressure cold to hot on the dyno.. The Joe Gibbs Driven stuff drops about 10 psi from room temp oil to 150*.. no other oil is close to that. JW
How are those cranks crossdrilled? For the best Crank support good constant oil flow to the Rods it's better to have a cross drilled and double cross drilled Crank where needed and then run main bearings with a groove only in the upper shell. Also depending on what size ring package your running, buzzing that size motor up to 6K buys you nothing due to frictional hp losses overwhelming the output at the flywheel!
Good information on how oils are rated. Most of the big time engine builder's when asked, recommend the valvoline VR 1 oils in their motors. I have used AMS oil 10/40 in my other stage 1 motor & it is still running good to this day.
Mmmmm Sounds like Propaganda to me, from "engine builders" sponsored by an oil company. I am in this industry, know dozens of other guys that do what I do, across all the brands, and don't know one of them that recommends Valvoline for any serious engine. I tried it, because just like you, getting "special oil" can be a pain in the butt.. and as is my custom, I went back and took a look at the rings, camshaft, and bearings after breaking in a new motor on it... That was the last motor that every had VR-1 poured into it here. From the excessive pressure drop off from room temperature to 200* during cam break in, to the ugly wear patterns on the cam, to the scuffing of the cylinder walls and excessive wear on the rings, I had seen quite enough. You have to understand that once the rings are broken in, once the bearings in the motor are burnished (or surface hardened by use) an engine till tolerate quite a bit when it comes to protection, or lack of it, from the oil. But new stuff is unforgiving. And the higher the performance, the more demanding it is on the oil. I am not saying that oil was your only problem here, but chances are high that it was a contributing factor, if you find the mains out of round. You can do better in this department. Ignore my advice at your own peril.. what works in joe blows old motor making 350 HP, and what will work in your new one, making 500 plus, are two different things. JW
JW, Propaganda, I have to sit back and think about that one. I know a lot of racers & engine builder's that run the VR1 oil in their motors with great success, from a 1000 + & race every weekend in the points series. At the end of the season, They freshen up the motor for the next one.
A few of us are trying Champion oil with good results so far. Not gonna say if it’s the cats meow yet or not. We haven’t put it through all nine lives yet.
You know, oil is like discussing politics or religion... there are alot of opinions out there. And none of them are necessarily wrong.. When I say "ignore my advice at your own peril".. what I mean is this.. ALL my experience here with everything from A to Z in the performance engine realm is with the 350 and 455 Buicks. There are some motors out there you could put Whale oil in, and they would be just fine.. The 455 is less forgiving that some engines, especially when highly modified. Our mains are big in diameter, and narrow in width.. exactly the opposite of what you want.. Our cam bearings are tiny, and we have that goofy oil pump hanging off the front of the block.. all stuff that make the Chevy builders run for cover.. But we love them, and if you understand them and know how to work with them, then they are some of the best performance engines out there.. bar none. Remember, my paycheck, and the food on my table (and more importantly me getting back to the track, it would not be bad for me to skip a couple meals LOL)..... depends upon my success building Buick engines.. so I am going to leave no stone unturned and do everything possible to make that success happen. And I share my advice to help you guys have the same success.. no other reason. While most builders won't freely offer up advice on builds, fearing that it will cost them business, for twenty years I have found just the opposite.. the more I tell folks how to do it, the more they want me to do it for them. It's the natural result of being an educated customer/enthusiast. And I may be biased, but I think Buick folks are smarter than the average knucklehead.. JW
JW, Well said, I'm with you on that philosophy. I try not to cut any corners when having one assembled.
I found this interesting: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/1028884-oil-test-zddp.html
Interesting - Be sure to read all the comments! There's one that's especially interesting in light of how the OP seems to frame the post.
