OK guys I am your average skeptic and have read claims about almost every oil additive, until this one. I did a search on the site and came up with very little about Oil Extreme. I read a review on it done by David Vizard and thought I would share. http://www.oilextreme.com/motortec_article.html Enjoy Scott
The biggest problem with oil additives is you have no idea how they will react with the additive-pack that is already in the base oil that you are using. Not saying it won't be OK, but some say it is a crap-shoot. Seems to me if that stuff, or any other was so great, one of the big oil refiners would be putting it in their super-duper off-road oil. While I thoroughly enjoy reading Vizard's work, I highly doubt he came upon something that the major oil refiners don't know about. I have read that Smokey Yunick said shortly before he passed he finally said screw-it and cashed-in on one snake-oil con; Pro-Long. The stuff does work according to some, but once again, does some bad things to the oil chemistry when used in a street-type engine and can become corrosive. Food for thought and just sharing how I came to my own conclusion on this stuff.
Which stuff causes corrosion and causes bad things to the oil chemistry? And forgive me for a dumb question, but what constitutes a street type engine? I've always wondered if my truck or my wife's SUV were considered street type engines. Scott
I have read that ProLong has a chloride based molecule that breaks down and results in a corrosive chemistry. Now "I read it on the internet" so draw your own conclusions or do your own research. When I say street engines it is based on an engine that has a lot of heat cycles from stop and go driving, mixed with highway driving, extreme temp changes with the seasons, etc. and not just a few dozen passes down the track between oil changes.
I feel like it is now easier to just spring for the roller valvetrain rather than analyze engine oil and be picky about which one to use. This has been a discussion that has been going for years with no end in sight. Seems like people think they are safe until it's too late and you've lost a lobe, myself included. Hats off to everyone still running flat tappets with high pressure springs.:TU:
Here is some more interesting reading from Hot Rod, article is from 2009 but original was written in 06 I thought. Anyway, addresses some of the flat tappet issues, keep in mind some info has already changed again (ie the Rotella zinc content). It would seem roller lifters are the best way to go, perhaps once everyone starts doing the swap prices might drop a wee bit??? Naaahhhh... http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/flat_tappet_cam_tech/viewall.html
With all this talk about oils and adding ZDDP, it's actually pretty frustrating. I change my oil often, and hate an oil change costing more than $30, so that kinda rules out the $15 bottle of ZDDP on top of the $25+ gallon of oil. Now that I've got an 8qt oil pan on the Buick, I've started using Wal Mart's Accel 10W-40 SF code oil for 1988 and earlier models at $2.50/qt. Maybe after a few months on it I'll send it off to get analyzed and see how it's holding up. It should have adequate zinc, and low calcium, and low detergents...meaning 3000 mile changes as I already am accustomed to doing.
I gave up on the Wallyworld brand oils a few years back. Was using their generic 5W-30 synthetic in my beater Impala and it was ok but in my wife's grand-am she noticed the oil light was flickering on her way home one night. I checked it when she arrived and it was 3 quarts low after just about 1000 miles. This was in a. 3.1L that had never burned more than 1/2 quart between oil changes. Swapped back to name brand stuff and never had another oil consumption problem the last 3 years of ownership before we traded it away. I feel your pain on oil changes. With the SRE oil pan 7 quarts of modern oil gets pricey fast.
Just to muddy the water regarding Accel oil: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3022586
A friend of mine runs a big block chevy with a blower on it, around 700HP, and runs cheap walmart brand oil at approximately 2,000 mile oil change intervals, in which it uses around a quart every 1,000 miles if he is doing a lot of highway driving. It's a roller cam and roller lifter engine. Last year it dropped an intake valve (going down the drag strip) after around 80,000 miles on the engine, so he pulled the engine apart for a refresh and the bottom end looked practically new. After putting the engine back together he did the oil analysis thing a couple times and all the results are good. Walmart, go figure.
Not the first time I have heard of this, although not with a blown big-block. There is oil dogma like with filter brands, oil brands,, car makes, or .... I certainly wonder if I have just wasted money on expensive oils. Sometimes I think it is just cheap insurance against extreme conditions. And then wonder how much insurance it really offers.
It certainly seems that the people who say Walmart oil is no good usually have no proof and the ones who say it's good usually have proof. FYI, there is Accel oil and SuperTech available only at Walmart. It appears Supertech is just private label name brand oil.
mainly regarding post above you Oil analysis tells you if oil has adequate viscosity or if its too broken down and needs changed..has nothing to do with the detergent package within the oil being correctly suited to our engines or newer OEM engines.. Whole purpose of this thread dictates what type of oil should be used in our motors. with that said detergent packages do help prevent oil breakdown,but just about all are geared towards new cars and emissions Just about every off the shelf oil at your Wal-mart, gas station, and parts store are heavily Calcium concentration packages with low ZDDP/Phosphorous, which will have negative impact on Our engines in due time.. Only off the shelf oil id consider using would be non-detergent oil with a bottle of ZDDP. Otherwise best to go Joe Gibbs Driven oil (HR-2) if you want to stick with Dino oil if you desire Synthetic, Amsoil Z-Rod is best bet in that area but Joe Gibbs has synthetic version as well(HR-4)
I use stp, and im switching to whale oil 30 wt. So whos got the whare house full of old oil from the 70ies
I can't believe nobody recommends Brad Penn it seems. I'm with Larry back on page 1. I think Im sticking with brad Penn and forget the ZDDP bottle. The oil itself has enough Zinc.
I use Brad Penn in my "hi-po" engines and the Kawasaki engine in our Hustler mower. In the '65 & '62 Buicks, both with around 80K engines, I use 10W40 Valvoline along with Lucas additive. My '05 Silverado gets Valvoline MaxLife. My wife's '05 Redline Vue gets Mobile 1. All get either NAPA Gold or Wix filters.
I use Supertech oil in my Monte Carlo and wifes Safari Van, no issues. I've used the Accel brand 10/40 oil from Walmart in my GS also with no issues, it states its for cars before I think '87 or '89 and it lists the zinc as being 1300, 1500 or 1800 ppm, I don't remember. Since I've been going to the track with my GS, Im now using Brad Penn 10/30
Mark where do you get Brad Penn 10-30. The shop that built my engine recommended Brad Penn 15-40 which I've been using for about 5 years now just wondering if too thick though.
