Pilot Bushing crank

I have a buick 455 crank, out of the engine, current hole is 1.075 diameter, . 830 deep. Should I turn a bushing to fit this or bore out the crank?

 

^^^
Yep.

 

I've had a few turned down but for install the best thing I've seen was when my builder Gary Foster installed one into a crank using an old manual trans input shaft and a big hammer.

 

In fact I may start shopping now. Need to install one into the 494 I just bought.

 

Always check the pilot shaft OD and the bushing ID after whacking it in place as the ID will sometimes "get tighter" from compression during installation.

 

Done this wrong 2x's and it's a pain in the ass to get it ID diameter right. I finally got it right when I turned the ID at the crank and test fitted the transmission output shaft. Always use a oil impregnated brass bushing.

 

I had mine turned down as well

 

What I had read in other discussions was that the hole in the crank was not centered, anyone else ran into this? Do you use an oilite bushing or brass?

 

I would definitely recommend making sure that pocket is centered. I thought the cranks for MT cars were machined for the bushing.

Not to hijack Kerry's thread, but on a related note, is there any reason not to use a pilot (roller) bearing instead of bushing? I did on my last build (was a GM part) and didn't see any reason not to but was subsequently told by a reputable Buick engine builder, w/no explanation as to why, to use a bushing.

Also, a misaligned bellhousing causes issues - Took me awhile to figure that one out. In my case it was a Lakewood Blowproof & caused a very slight shutter when the clutch engaged.

 

X2 My machinist checked the center of the bore on my crankshaft it was out by .002 if I remember correctly. After he centered and trued the bore the stock busing was too loose for comfort so he made me two that fit correctly. I also have a quick time bellhousing that he’s checking the center on as well.

 

I have tried the roller pilot bearing on 2 different occasions and both times it got chewed up within a years time. I had at the time, the same Lakewood bellhousing that Dano mentioned, I believe that was the main misalignment culprit.
I went back to the stock housing and put in a bronze bushing, no further issues for 10+ years.
As others have stated, I had to remove material from the OD and open up the ID of the bronze bushing to ensure the correct fit.

 

Always clean the mating surfaces of the housing and block and index the bellhousing.
Even if it is factory, it may be off. It does not take that long. Torque properly.
(while we are here, installing the pressure plate, use short turns and cross tighten the pressure plate to ensure proper and even loading and centering to the flywheel)

You can use a bearing, but you cannot lube them once installed, and you cannot put enough lube on one and not have it sling off. All the friction dust will cause wear and it will die.

Bronze oilite style are best and will last beyond the clutch. Never lube them, it may seal the pores and defeat the bearing's intent to self lube.

It is really to keep a light centering of the pilot shaft, not really a load bearing or transmitting force, so it needs to be lose to avoid "holding" the pilot when the clutch is disengaged or you get gear clashing. And you do not want it too lose to prevent input shaft case bearing wear.

And always get transmission and bell housing mating surfaces flush and torqued to spec. Shake it like a stripper and it will settle. If not, find out why.

I use a couple of towels on the driver/passenger doors, a long boom handle and a small ratchet strap (just the strap and hook) looped around the transmission though the floor to steady and support the tail and it does not roll off the jack, since I do most things by myself.

(all of this for those that don't know and find this thread)

 

Are all automatic transmission crankshafts drilled the same? i.e., would I be able to measure a spare crank(or 2 or 3) to check dimensions and machine a bushing to fit instead of the actual crank in the car?

 

Unfortunately no. Depends on the crank and to some extent the year. Most older cranks were drilled correctly, most newer cranks were not fully drilled. And there are exceptions

 

The videos I found on the subject said that it's preferable to use the bearing. But bearings cost a lot more than bushings do, plus they are NOT recommended by others, as we have seen. I am about install my TKX in my GS, and after reading this thread I am going with the bushing.

 

That seems like a great idea. I will be doing this job alone on my car, too, so I'm gonna try your idea.