I need to add a couple wires to my harness. one is a ignition switched 12+ for the Everyday electric choke. In addition, I have the integrated resistance wire in the harness. Depending on what coil I use, I may need to bypass the resistance wire. Some coils like my Mallory Promaster want a full 12V at the coil during run. Others want around 9V. I think. I don't have a coil this minute. My question is, IF I do bypass the resistance wire, can I piggy back the 12V+ to the choke on top of the full 12v+ to the coil (if needed)?
Yes. The choke power demand is very small. Many will operate at 7-12v. So you *should* be OK to run with or without a resistance wire and the choke off the coil +.
On my dual quad 430 engine I ran a 16ga wire from the fuse block ign terminal thru the firewall to the electric choke. From there to a ballast resistor and then to the coil (MSD blaster II) AND a pertronix I . Worked great.
As long as I'm confused, let me ask another question regarding resistor wiring. See this image, it is from Mallory showing how to wire their distributor. This kind of is saying two opposite things. NOTE: the purpose...... That paragraph is saying, failure to use the resistance wire will cook the distributor module. Then the last paragraph. NOTE: The red wire would prefer to see 12v using a loom resistor makes that more difficult.... Wait, didn't they just say at the top you have to keep the voltage down? Which is it? And when they say 12V, I assume that is generic for the 12.6 to 14.4v system.
Same thing I did.... Running 14.? volts. The choke opens rather quickly that way you dont get that foul smell of raw gas coming out the tail pipe.. High idle set at 1100 rpms stay at that RPM till I tap the peddle... Still NEED you get it up to 140 150 degrees before leaving the driveway..... The hill with a 15 MPH limit does not like a cold carburetored motor..... EFI and Diesels dont need as much of a warm up.
Looking at their other diagrams, it seems the coil wants the resistor, but the distributor wants full 12V. Running a resistor makes it easy as you just connect the Red wire before resistor and the coil after. I do like that whole relay running them both. That makes it real nice. Where did you mount the relay?
Easiest way to run it... Uck messing with that resistance wire. only a idiot would change out that wire..... You can always carry a points disturbutor and wire in the trunk.... https://documents.holley.com/frm33565_ready_to_run_add.pdf
I ran a wire from the end of the R wire back to the firewall mounted the relay behind the factory harness .. With the new wires (2) inside the harness. Cant really see it unless you are looking for it....
There is (sometimes) a yellow wire at the windshield wiper motor that is unused and is switched 12v. I use that to energize the relay. If you get feedback and the engine will not shut off you can add a diode to the charging circuit.
OK. Let me re-re-re clarify something. I need a trigger wire to activate the relay. Terminal R down on starter would work, but it is way down there. I'm looking at hooking my relay up to the alternator 12V+ line for main power. Now, Is there any reason I can't use the pink wire that goes to the coil positive? Granted, this is the resistor wire in there, but it is only activating a relay. Is the reduced voltage ok and still makes the relay function?
Why do you need a relay? For what? The electric choke? Just use one of these and be done with it, https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NW_785131
The reason I was going to use a relay was to send full voltage to distributor but resistance wire voltage to coil. I'm just trying to keep it all short and tucked in near the coil. Everything on the Mallory instructions say the coil still wants the resistance wire but the distributor wants full 14.4v.
The only reason to use a relay is to switch a high current draw device. Things like electric fans, fuel pumps, amplifiers etc. You are overthinking this. Why not just wire it like in Figure1?
In post 8 open the link for the MSD... Use the resistance wire as the trigger post (85). FWIW it may be the pink wire if thats the one that originally went to the coil (+).... and if so use it.... Been to long for me to remember if it was pink.... For the ground post (86) use the screw that you use to mount the relay. For 30 & 87 thats just a 12 volt source......
Well, for one, I don't have an ignition ballast resistor, I have a resistor wire in the harness. So in order to wire it like shown in your diagram, I would need to get the Red wire going to distributor harness from the starter R terminal. The coil wants the resistance wire/resistor to keep it's positive side at lower voltage or it will cook the ignition module. While at the same time, the distributor wants the full 12-14.4 v. What I'm trying to do is split the power to the two different needs, one 14v to choke and distributor module, the other 8-9V from wire to the coil positive. By going to a relay, I am avoiding a long power wire from the R terminal on starter to the Distributor.
There are a number of ways to do the same thing. I would simply get 12 volts for the Mallory red wire directly from the fuse block. The "R" wire from the starter solenoid is only energized during cranking. It bypasses the resistance wire.
Exactly what I'm trying! The pink wire on the coil is the resistance wire and I'm using that as the trigger while leaving it on the coil at the same time. Stealing full voltage from the alternator wire. Ground to coil mount. and 87 to the distributor power line and choke. I would rather not extend a long wire from fuse block if I can just use all the connections up by the coil/alternator area.
