Years ago in the GSXetra there was an article published on how to Mod the shifter so there was a "detent" for each gear - forcing you to lift up on the lock-out. Basically invlved just notching the slide that the lock lever rides on. I'll dig for it. ....here's where I mounted my tach
Yeah Alan, I wrote that thing about the shifter plate mod. I actually bought some new ones and copied the pattern onto them and sold them. Then the plate which by the way is held in by two bolts was discontinued. Any original plate can be modified. See if you can find the article. I originally did it for my GSX in the early 80s for bracket racing. Just made the mod for the 2-3 shift. Worked like a charm. Slapped it hard for literally thousands of runs w/o hitting neutral. Was still that way on the X when I sold it. Bruce
Graham after our phone conversation tonight I looked at the picture of your shifter handle you have a 70-72 shifter handle in your car now and probably the base is newer as well a 68-69 handle may not fit on that unit!!! I may have a 70-72 handle in my collection please when you get home take a picture of the shifter base and I can tell from that what one you have... If you have the 70-72 set up it is actually better and you can get a new chrome (plastic) insert for the top as well Ken
Correct - a 68/69 Shifter handle will not fit on a 70-72 Shifter. I dug in my stash ... I'll send you a PM
Thanks Ken, I may see you on Friday. Alan, That would mean more to me than you could imagine. Thanks and we'll chat soon! :beer :TU:
OK,... this thing is retarded. :Brow: Took it out this morning on its maiden voyage. At a 30 mph roll I kicked the throttle up only halfway (no downshift) and smoked both tires instantly. What a machine! :shock: Wow :3gears:
Congratulations :TU: :TU: :TU: Thats probalby why i did not hear from you Friday you were to busy laughing and giggling and shaking :shock: .. Call me next time you are back in town we can get together and shoot the brezze and maybe do a car swap :grin: ( no not that one ) Ken
Serious traction issues *Update*, took the machine out this morning. It was overcast, cool, 50F. We are at 2800 ft here. Still running the 14" Factory ralleys with newer 245 TA BFG radials all around. Using up last years stock of VP's "CMP" Oxygenated race fuel. $685 a drum. Converter is a custom built unit that is TIGHT. Stalls at 2600-2700rpm. 3:90 gears. I will be getting some 15" Weld Prostars and big ET Street radials for the rear. At 60mph I slammed the throttle wide open and HAZED the tires. :shock: No ****!! Looked in the rear view mirror and saw the black patches then hit the binders as it was only a 50 mph zone. Unreal... :TU: Still some valve train noise apparent though. o No: Have great oil pressure, the lifters are spinning, pushrods spitting the Red Line oil, Lash seems to be set right and the sound is the same on both sides of the engine, Clickity clacking... Is that normal? Any ideas? uzzled: Ken, should have called, we had to go for turkey at the inlaws. I'll call you soon.
Graham, Haven't been following this whole thread, but glad to see you have your car out and enjoying it! :TU: :3gears:
My valvetrain is definitely noisier since I put the aluminum heads and roller rockers on. Doesn't make any noise when cold, but gets clickey when hot. I would guess I need more preload when hot, due to the aluminum expansion. Still, too loose is better than too tight. I've been told by several people that roller rocker are naturally noisier than the stock steel rockers. I thought they would be quieter o No:
Very good points on your previous valve train thread, thanks Larry, I'll recheck the adjustments, they may be looser than that. Its still somewhat noisy, which is kinda concerning. Here are a few recent pics, still have to bolt the passenger seat in. :grin:
Side shot. Traction is a major problem with the factory ralleys & P245 60 R14"s. New wheels and rubber on the way. Stay tuned.
"...more preload when hot, due to the aluminum expansion. Still, too loose is better than too tight..." That will depend on the type of lifters. If the plunger is hitting the plunger retainer, then the cheap snap wire type won't last. If it's a good c or e-clip type, they can take that.
The shifter looks great has an awsome feel when you are just cruising waiting to slam it into first!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :beer
Graham - you're such a Shifty guy :beer Much better on the Eyes now ... for us 68/69 weenies o No: :TU: ....Glad I could help your AWSOME project alittle
Finally,.. a little more Traction Just recieved 4 CenterLine Warrior Series 07 rims. (2) 15x7, (2) 15x8.5 all with 5" backspacing. MT ET Street Radials 275 60 R15 and 235 60 R15. Nice stance. Rears are tight with no rubbing. Had to lightly trim 3/16" on inner rear wheel sheet metal lips. I know, it needs paint.. Took the machine out last night and wasted a new Shelby Mustang 2 times at 2 lights. :grin: :TU:
Great look Graham :TU: Great looking project. I have been following your build and incorporating some of your setups/ideas in to my own ('68 Skylark 455 swap... Hope you don't mind ). I was starting to think ahead to my rear tires and it looks like you answered one of my questions. I do have one question. That is a Stage 2 poston scoop and if so what does it measure from the top of the carb to the scoop? I have the TA Sp1 Intake, 1" spacer topped with an 850 Mighty Demon and I was wondering what kind of clearance I will have with the scoop. Thanks Wayne
