I had one in the garage that seemed to pop randomly. Turns out there was an outlet outside on the back deck randomly attached to that circuit. Fixed that and no more GFI problem. There are a couple random circuits in my house - QC in 1985 was not so great on my house either.
My house was built in 1989 by an electrician. He showed off by having a five-way switch circuit that turns on the hall lights from 1) the main entry, 2) outside the bedroom door, 3) kitchen hall entry and 4) top of the stairs. Oddly, almost none of the old GFCI outlets pop in the existing bathrooms and the kitchen. The only one I had issues with was the one he ran to a tree in the front yard to power Christmas lights. It keeps getting infested with ants that kill it. I quit replacing after the second one is six months. Damned ants!
My neighbor is a retired electrician and he likes the GFCI outlets. But like he said, you got to pony up a few $$ and buy the good quality ones. I've replaced a couple of gfci and regular outlets in our house because they installed the cheapest (lowest quality) ones they could find. There's a lot of companies selling plain old garbage and people snatch it up cause it's cheap! If they actually added up all the costs of replacing several times versus doing it once, they would soon learn. Keith
Agreed, definitely don't put your refrigerator on GFCI. They can trip and you lose all your cold items if you aren't around and catch it in time. According to the licensed electrician we use, the newest electrical code requires GFCI, Arc Fault, or combination of the two on every circuit in houses now. (at least 120volt) He hates it, but can't do anything but follow the code book.
When I had the Man-Cave built in the shop, I was not aware that the outlet behind the bed was on the same circuit (down-stream) as the GFCI outlet in the bathroom... I might add that I had specified that i had wanted each wall of the bedroom to be on a different circuit breaker. No sense loosing everything if one breaker trips... But no, it was not as I specified. Yes, I DEFINITELY want my outlet by the sink to be a GFCI. I use a Water-Pik and electric toothbrush. No sense in zapping myself... End point: be sure that other outlets are not in the same circuit downstream...
So much dis-information on here, allow me to provide corrections. I am a Master Electrician. GFCI are required in certain areas of home such as kitchen, bathrooms, garages, outdoor and any damp or wet location. GFCI are not required throughout the home. Refrigerators in the kitchen do not require a GFCI. Refrigerator s require GFCI when installed anywhere else like basement, garage and wet or damp location. If you alter or remove a GFCI where required and have an insurance claim due to fire or death, you are liable.
Since you are a professional at this, what is the best quality GFCI outlets we can use for replacements?
Going to stand directly on dirt or concrete, or within reach of water and/or metal plumbing, and use power - that's gotta be a GFCI circuit or outlet. They trip in 1/40th of a second; they analyze the current input versus output and trigger on a measured imbalance. You can't react to the shock fast enough to let go, but the device will open the circuit before then.
The fart fan in our 1/2 will randomly trip the GFI. Possibly the inductive load when it is turned on causing it? Only happens a couple times a year. Replaced the GFI and it still happens, Fart fan is next.
Unfortunately most Bathrooms have only one circuit, even light bulbs will trigger a GFCI, if possible it’s best to separate and let the GFCI stand alone.
72STAGE 1, I am not a master electrician, but have been working in construction for 45 years. I respect what you have to say. And I don't have all the answers. I continue to try to learn from other people like yourself. But the house we just finished doing a complete rebuild on required at least Arc Fault breakers on all the 120 circuits. All the kitchen and bathroom outlets had to be GFCI. Our electrician follows current codes and has been at it for over 40 years. This is what he told me was required when I complained about the refrigerator on GFCI. We are in New Mexico, so I don't know if you have some differences where you are. I'm glad you added your advice to the thread. I agree, if Greg's codes call for GFCI or Arc Fault, they need to stay in place. Insurance not covering in the case of fire etc. for one. Also, if he sells later, he will most likely have to put back any that were changed to standard outlets. Unless there is a code violation, couldn't the guys that have bedroom outlets and bath stuff going off with the GFCI, pigtail the circuit in the box and use a GFCI outlet individually where protection is required instead of feeding the rest of the circuit off of the GFCI outlet?
Oddly enough, I was running my shop vac on the most troublesome GFCI and I could feel a current tingle when I touched it. The GFCI did not pop.
I was told years ago that motors like fans, pumps, and refrigerators should not be plugged into a GFCI outlet. They have a tendency to trip the GFCI breaker. I don't know if it's true.
You are now comparing apples and oranges, I didn’t say a thing about Arc Fault devices at all because it confuses folks, yes they are required, but again we are only talking about GFCI’s. These discussion get ridiculous with all the know it all’s and confused opinions....geez! Next, no a Refrigerator is not required to be protected At All if it’s in the kitchen !! To respond to your last question. To put anything on. GFCI load side is not recommended unless it’s more outlets you want to be protected by the GFCI. If you put motors or lights on the load side there’s an excellent chance it will cause unwanted tripping.
