How do you get the sealing surface of the reproduction door weatherstriping to orientate correctly all around the door? The new door weatherstriping that I'm using (TPP) "rolls in" at the lower corners of the door! I've included a picture of original door weatherstriping on a yellow door, verses the reproduction on a red door.
I used the weather stripping from steelrubber with no problem back in 2009. It appears that your weatherstripping was produce flat out not in a mold that would allow for the bending at the door curve.
Thank you Gerry for your input. I'm not surprised that Steel Rubber's product has worked for you, as I have always found their weatherstriping superior to all others that I've used, including Soft Seal and Metro. I did purchase these at the recommendations of others on this site. Even Todd (www.stage1restoration.com) lists the Metro/The Parts Place door weatherstip as the best on the market, so I'm wondering what those of you who were happy with these items from Metro/The Parts Place had to do to get yours to "lay down" and seal properly? -mike
These pictures may help to describe what I'm seeing. At the top of the door, the weatherstrip sits correctly. But as the weatherstrip descends to the bottom rear of the door you'll notice the weatherstrip "rolling" in on itself. This is an early (August 1969) 1970 model year door. All the push-pins on the weatherstrip line up with holes in the door, so it seems like it fits! -mike
Its reproduction, you didn't expect it to fit like the originals did you? Thst being said, I like the A&M soffseals better. I tried the metro brand and I wasn't impressed. There's a thread on here I started about my issues with the metros
Just so there is no confusion, my site says the "Latex" versions are what many feel is the best on the market . . . . . Not sure if that is what you're working with or not but . . . . . . Standard Door Weather stripping is typically $59 (give or take) where as the Latex stuff is $159 - so big difference in cost also.
Good News! I was able to straighten out the door weatherstrip, working from the inside of the car, with the weatherstrip installed and the door closed. I used a plastic "popsicle stick" to roll out those sections that had rolled in, and generally worked the weatherstrip until all I could see from the inside was the side of the weatherstrip and not the sealing surface (that should face and seal against the door jamb). There is no interior in my vehicle which simplified seeing what I was doing. Time will tell if this new weatherstrip "takes the set" and will stay in this proper position going forward. I also noted that the original door weatherstrip on another of my 1970 Skylarks had also "rolled in" at the front bottom corner of the door, so the original parts weren't immune from this issue. I'd advise purchasing new door weatherstrips from Todd (www.stage1restoration.com) as you'll know that you're getting the best available parts for our Buicks!! I purchased these weatherstrips from The Parts Place, a year or so ago, and yes they are the expensive latex versions. But the tech support at Metro said that these weren't their product, based on a lack of a Metro part number under the rear-most molded end, so who knows whose parts I'm working with! Oddly, the only identifying marks are an "L" on the right door weatherstrip and a "R" on the left! Both doors close like a refrigerator door.
