So, my aluminum rockers really wore out the shafts at 91K miles. The rockers don't look too bad but I definitely will be getting new shafts. I've been told to get new rockers as well which means steel ones. Has anyone used bronze bushings in the rockers? It wouldn't be as good a rollers but I figured it might soak up some slack and be easier on the shafts. Wasting my time or brilliant idea whose time has come?
using the correct material you can rebush them. you could also change the ratio by an offset cut. and it all depends how good you are.
Never done it before, no idea what I'm doing. I'm a shade tree mechanic, a network engineer and a part time steering wheel wrapper. My goal would be two fold. Improve reliability and do it cheaply.
Thought abt bronze bushing my worn alums while I was still working and had toolroom access. Retired 6 yrs now and have a couple sets of rollers so no need to repair them, so off they went. Most for free. Like John said, you can do it if you have the talent.
Greg, If shafts are worn, the rockers are worn just the same. Dissimilar metals, galling taking place, along with the added spring pressures. Buy rollers, buy new steel rockers & shafts, or Bush your old ones & get new shafts. The choice is yours.
If they are the stamped steel, they are 1.5 ratio. 68-69s are 1.59, aluminum style are 1.55 Offset Bush the aluminums and get them up to 1.65
you do know that the oem alum's weren't the best material to use or the shafts. how do you get alum to wear out steel other than dirty oil
Back in 76, Fisher Buick warranted my aluminums and replaced them with the stamped steels free. Silent recall.
Unrelated, but I need a steering wheel wrapped! Last time I tried to get it done I was quoted $300!! Does that seem high to anyone else?
You will find that the cost of the material and the machine time, will be cost prohibitive. I looked into bronze bushing rockers in the past.. If you have, or have access to a mill, and build the fixtures, you could do it.. the bearing bronze will still be expensive.. and the bigger question is why? The 68/9 rockers are strong enough to hold up to a moderate roller cam.. anything beyond that you need a roller rocker. I use the stamped steel on mild hyd cam rebuilds, the 70/71 alum with HD shafts and roller rocker hold downs on more serious flat tappet stuff, and then the 68/9 400/430 rockers on the mild hyd roller cam motors. We tried the nylon button rockers (70 Up, all styles) on the roller cams, but the side loading is considerably higher with a roller, and it will break the buttons in short order. The TA "heavy duty rocker set" is the HD shafts, with the stamped steel rockers.. shafts are good, not so much the rockers for any serious application. What happens on the stamped steel stuff, is the pushrod will go right thru the rocker arm end. The strongest possible stock set is the TA HD shafts, with rebuilt 70/71 rockers.. I would to all the way out to some pretty serious cams with those.. issue of course is adjustablity, and I am no fan of adjustable pushrods generally. This set is no good for any roller cam, due to the nylon buttons. JW
I guess it depends on who quoted it and what condition the wheel is in. I've wrapped several now. PM me or chime in on the Wheel Wrapping Thread. So, if my aluminum rockers are intact and show no excessive wear, them and a set of TA HD shafts is the best that can be had without spending for roller rockers?
Yes.. you can replace the wear inserts for the valve tip side of the rocker, TA has new ones, or just have them reground.. usually the pushrod side is fine.. That 70/71 rocker with the HD shaft set is the best thing short of roller rockers, it's just the nylon buttons that keep us from using them on roller cams. I have considered doing the buttons in aluminum, and will most likely follow thru with that research and testing, once my supply of 68/9 rockers is exhausted. I think I still have 10 or set sets of those.. ready for rebuild.. But we will need some option for those who want a roller cam, but don't want to spend 1K for roller rockers to go with it. I don't blame them either.. the cost/benefit of the hyd roller cam, with the added cost of roller rockers, is over just shy of 2K more than the flat tappet cam/stock rockers that many of us can use. I am always looking at ways to keep the costs down, and give customer's options. Many opt for the best stuff.. and that's fine.. JW
There is an article replacing the nylon buttons with an aluminum thick washer and drill and tap for Allen bolts. Portland Engine rebuilders use a large aluminum rivet over a thick aluminum washer. I don't know where they get those. This thread is on a 6.2 GM diesel that also uses the nylon buttons: New GM 660 short block build underway..... | Diesel Place Nylon washers and Allen bolts on Buick V6: Alternative Rocker Shaft Buttons (Stock Style Setup) | Turbo Buick Forum | Buick Grand National | T-Type | Turbo T
I bought a set of aftermarket LS roller rockers on Jim N's suggestion, have one sitting on a TA/Rover head looking at it. Seems like it'll work with some fab work. The rockers are in pairs on a short 9/16" shaft held to a base plate by three capscrews. Obviously the cylinder spacing is off so they will require new base plates which can be machined from 1" square bar stock. That will require clearance cuts, fastener holes, threaded holes, a full length radiused seat, and angle cuts on two sides. So not the simplest job. Then the valve spacing is a bit wider so the rollers will be sitting a little outboard of the valve centers. That should help valve rotation though. The price was right. Jim
