I am also somewhat a beginner. If nothing was done to set the mixture or idle that will need to be done for sure. I learned this, you turn the two front screws down on the bottom all the way clockwise, then back 1.5 turns, then start the car, then turn them counter clock wise 1/2 turn at a time until it stumbles, then 1/4 turn back clockwise. This is what I have done and it worked. Choke however, seems to be something more intricate.
The only possibility I see is that the choke pull off might be drilled out completely and it is releasing very quickly. Are you saying the air valves flip all the way open by gunning it in Park/Neutral? If you look at the vacuum orifice of the choke pull off, you will see a metal insert with a very fine hole drilled in it. The size of that hole determines how quickly the pull off releases when vacuum drops. The pull off should release relatively slowly. If you remove it om the carburetor, push the link in and cover the vacuum opening with your finger, then remove your finger, the link should not snap right out, it should smoothly move out in a slower fashion. If the vacuum opening is drilled out, it will snap out quickly all at once. Are you getting a bog when you tromp it from low speed?
I am still trying to get the carb tuned just right, it hasn't been on long, but yes I do feel wht could be described as a bog, then it builds up power after the "bog". Could for sure be caused by those flaps opening then closing. Yes in park idling if I reach to the carb and push the throttle back for a quick rev it opens the big flaps near all the way, then they come back closed.
Yes, that is too quick. I would remove the pull off and test it like I described. You can also try adjusting the spring tension. On the passenger side of the carburetor under the shaft is an allen type set screw that holds the adjustment. When you loosen the set screw, you need to hold the shaft with a screwdriver (there is a slot in the shaft for this). Then unwind the spring slowly. Then turn the shaft until you feel tension in the spring. Turn it 1/2 turn, and tighten the set screw. 1/2 a turn is about what you need, but you can try tighter or looser to see what works best. I would look at the pull off though. Cliff R also offers a pull off that is completely drilled out in conjunction with a small valve that goes inline of the vacuum supply to the pull off. This valve lets you adjust the vacuum restriction to the pull off to get it just right.
Thanks! I assume clockwise to tighten? I will check that spring tension 1st, as I think by hand engine off it felt like less resistance than another Qjet I had. I suppose if if I go to tight those puppies wont even open...
Yes, it's been awhile, but I think it's CW to tighten, it will be obvious. They should just budge when you wing the throttle in Park.
Ok, cold fast idle does not seem to be working. I could not figure out why. The vaccum pod that pulls the linkage might not be working, should that pull in when the engin is running (to hold the secondaries closed)? Mine does not pull in on its own and if I push it in it will stay until the throttle is moved. I pulled that carb off and gave up for now, after if popped and singed my right eyebrow:spank: I put my original carb back on.o No:
Something to consider here is why the carb was sold in the first place. Was it an issue of debauchery making the unit untunable? If we are not pursuing the rebuilding of the unit, (my experience is that most of the issues encountered by these carbs, short of outright abuse, is that these are repairable without disassembly) let's get as close to square one as possible. Addressing the choke issue, let's start by assessing its performance. With a cold engine, does the choke blade close completely? Is there sufficient tension from the spring to keep it closed against moderate tension by finger on the blade? Does the vacuum pull-off pull the choke open, against that tension? I suggest that, since we are unsure of the choke pull-off's condition, replace it with one for that carb number. We are therefore sure of the condition, and we can adjust as necessary for correct choke operation. With respect to the air valves, replacing the choke pull-off, will restore one of its controls. The other, which is the spring tension, let's adjust it thus: looosen the tension screw slightly, allowing the adjuster just enough slack to allow it to turn. Then loosen the adjuster enough to make the air valves stay open with opening force. Then, after being sure that the airvalves are free to operate in the bushings, use carb cleaner to be sure, slowly tighten the screw until the air valves close, then add about 1/2 turn, and tighten the keeper screw. Also check the metering rod cam between the secondaries, making sure that it is intact. This allows us a place to start. Next, let's be sure that the engine is sufficiently tunable. Set the ignition timing, and check the timing advances. The engineers developing this power train may have known what was happening, considering the success of the breed. Test, check and double check, measure twice, cut once. Before continuing, we have to know what is right, before fixing what is wrong. All of this advise is great, and well thought out, but none suggests starting with what the engineers found worked. Let's start there. We do not, after all know where this carb has been, or who "worked on it" last. Let us know...
The vacuum pod is bad. It should pull in on it's own any time the engine is running. It sounds like that carb needs a rebuild.
Replacing the vacuum break or choke pull-off is not difficult, and most of the carb issues with which you will contend are fixable without a rebuild. Try checking the choke performance once the pull-off is replaced. With a cold engine, open the throttle aboiut halfway, and let it close. Note whether the choke blade closes smartly, and stays closed. If it does not, try carefully and thoroughly cleaning the linkage, including the choke coil. if yours is on the carb, try removing the cover, noting its position before removal. There should be a mark both on the housing and on the cover. Note their relationship. if the choke is in the intake, carefully lift the cover. In both cases, liberally spray the linkage, coil, and choke blade housing, letting it dry thoroughly. While it dries, work the linkage, open to close, and back to open, making sure that the choke and linkage operates freely when you are through. Reinstall the cover, and watch the fast idle cam when the linkage tries to close the choke. It should raise the fast idle cam when the blade closes, regardless of the type choke used. Note now if the coil can now close the choke, but be sure that the engine is overnight cold. With the choke closed with the coil, pull a vacuum on the pull-off, making sure it fully seats. Note the choke blade position at that point, and you should be able to measure about a 1/8" gap between the rear of the choke blade, and the rear of the choke housing. Adjust the linkage for that point. Once these things are done, attempt to start the engine. we'll go from there. let us know...
I would venture to say with confidence that no intended malace was done with the sale of the carb...It may just need a good tuning or rebuild. It does not help that I am a carb virgin:laugh: I put my original carb back on for now since I do not have the time to play with the new carb. between work, kids soccer and baseball, home upkeep, etc... I do not have much time to tinker... I will most likely send the carb out to be gone thru by one of our local guru's. As it stands, someone who knew what they were doing may be able to get this carb running right with very little effort. :beers2:
My carb choke pulloff is also always "pushed out". Where can I buy a new choke pulloff, and where is the carb number on the carb please? thanks
The carb number is stamped on the carb, close to the secondary barrels, I believe on the drivers' side. Look for a seven digit number, starting with a 7. If one is not obvious, ANY replacement unit, if it fits, is better than a defective one, considering the ramifications of a cold flooded engine.
