So I m installing a pair of Dick Miller racing double adjustable uppers control arms,...with poly bushings in the upper ears,.. spherical bushings on the frame side Not even close to being centered or even slightly offset as the supplied bushings indicate it should be as two are taller than the other,.... in the frame saddles. No way in hell this is good for suspension travel as it will severely limit it's range of motion The bushings stacked to one side and a thrust washer,..3/16 will get it close,...but still not buttery smooth,...only real solution is roto joint upper joints in the housing. Now since these are built on the same platform as stock control arms and every other control on the market,..there lies an issue to be addressed for the guys looking for those better more consistent 60fts,.... something to look at
https://www.umiperformance.com/home...-joint-rear-end-housing-replacement-bushings/ Here's your fix,.. nothing new bern around forever obviously,..but not many guys use them,..they buy the arms and bolt them in with either rubber or poly bushings and think they've upgraded something,....may not be the case may have aggravated something you were trying to fix
Have you used or installed these before? The way I read this these are just for the factory housing ears. So would you go stock bushing on the control arm end?
Stock 12bolt housing,..has nothing to do manufacturer,...my frame is no different than any other ,....and has nothing to do with hardware torque,..Ivr run my bolts a half turn past seated for 20years,..the angles are parallel,..you get play with the stock arms and slop bushings,....you use a poly bushings its gonna hold the arm in a straight plane that doesn't lie,...or line up with the frame saddles. I'm not referring to binding due to over torque I'm talking about binding of it's range of motion,..a ride height it was even worse than at full extension,..which we obviously wouldn't be er encounter,..but at ride height and compression,..ie launch,..it's all bound up,.. keeping the springs and shocks from doing their job
My Alf Webie set came with si etching similar. But it was retained in the ears with a clip......there was alot of very detailed instructions on tighten then sliding that joint to get it into a certain location that wasn't binding.......then it was retained by drilling a small hole at the parting line between the joint and housing.....then tapping it....then using a set screw loc-tighted in
I dont have any at this time....car is still stored in trailer......I can get some in a few weeks when it gets out
Above is with poly ear bushing,.. obviously orientation to the mount saddle is piss poor and will bind no doubt Properly positioned with no effort dead center with the UMI roto joint ear bushings,... I remember doing my dad's upper arms years ago,..BMR double adjustable when trying to eliminate wheel hop in his,....had to push them into position,..I'll be adding these to his car as well Both pics are at ride height btw
Tank is in there now,..but I'll be adding metco billet lower arms,..I put stock stuff originally but since I'm wanting to compete in BSA and have plans for a stroker in the future,..I wanted to do what's necessary to get the car to leave consistently. Once I get my lift put in I'll get some good pics. Car will look completely stock but hopefully should have the power to run mid 12s on street tires and high 11s on drag radials at full weight. Will be making a TQ strap of some kind that will work off the bell housing bolts,.. aluminum driveshaft,.. loosened front control arms,..etc all the little stuff that adds up
Being an Oldsmobile guy,I’ve seen plenty of Dick Miller’s stuff,but it’s nothing different. Plenty of other manufacturers making the same products. I’m just curious if you actually received the correct pieces. As for stock stuff,if you need everything to look 1970,I have machined solid bushing pucks for upper ears in the housing,and offset-drilled the bolt hole as much as possible,to bring the instants center back. It’s a generic version of a raised ear or no-hop setup. Not as extreme,but every bit helps,and it looks stock. You can also play around with bushing offsets on the other 6 bushings,to choke the axle forward without looking obvious. Or if you are one of those people that think you need to point the pinion at the ground,you can do that too,but I keep that at stock angle. The 60’s showed it was worth it.
They are second hand ,..but nothing was offset like you would see in a swap arm like to put a a body axle in a g body or something,.. straight arms with the axle centered in the frame,...I've never taken the time to see if ear angles are different on the 12bolt,.. even 1 degree would put it away out by the time the arm reaches the frame
