1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

Steering column disassembly

Discussion in 'Got gears?' started by tubecatgs, Nov 19, 2022.

  1. tubecatgs

    tubecatgs Finally a 4 speed......

    Well, I was bored this week so thought last minute I would try to tear down my own steering column for an eventual 4 speed project.. Last one, a board member did for me and they did an awesome job. However, I'm in it now and stuck at this point...

    Does this look like a real GM column?

    Is it the correct length for 70-72 GS (seems to be about 31.5 inches)

    How do these last 2 or 3 pieces come apart? (Does the shifter slide off the bottom or is that connected to the entire shaft and does that pound out etc?)

    There are videos on line but they seem to skip the steps I need. Thanks
     

    Attached Files:

  2. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    That is a 69-72 A-body non-tilt column.
     
  3. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    The lower bowl is a press fit onto the main inner tube. Once the lower bowl is removed,the inner tube slides out the bottom. That linkage lever is spot-welded to the tube.
     
  4. tubecatgs

    tubecatgs Finally a 4 speed......

    Gi
    Got it thanks Brian. Pressed right out. I see The Parts Place has the upper and lower bearings... not cheap there. Is there a better priced place to go same quality? Thanks again
     
  5. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Bearings I'd just reuse. Clean them up in mineral spirits or similar solvent and repack them using some red and tacky grease
     
    1973gs and tubecatgs like this.
  6. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    Clean and re-grease. Do the same with the one at the bottom. I have tried the new ones for the bottom and the outer shell is not stamped exactly right. It moves around in the plastic housing,which makes the entire lower end move around like it has a bad bearing. The plastic part is correct because I have tried it with an original bearing.
     
  7. tubecatgs

    tubecatgs Finally a 4 speed......

    Thanks Jason/Brian..This one feels pretty toast. I will try to save it. Is it pressed on or will it slide off this short side of the shaft with some taps of a mallet? Oh and does anyone sell the big spring? Thanks
     

    Attached Files:

  8. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    That will slide off the splined shaft. Leave the bearing in the plastic housing and soak it in some paint thinner or something else that will de-gunk it real good. Flush it out,air hose it until it’s totally clean then re-pack it with grease.
     
    tubecatgs likes this.
  9. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Yeah, what he said! Lol
     
    tubecatgs likes this.
  10. tubecatgs

    tubecatgs Finally a 4 speed......

    The lower bearing feels a little loose... are they generally loose?

    Can these parts be painted or do they need to be bare metal for grinding purposes for the horn or anything? Thanks
     

    Attached Files:

  11. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Define loose?

    If you really wanna be slick, you can paint them in eastwood phosphate gray.
     
  12. tubecatgs

    tubecatgs Finally a 4 speed......

    Thanks... Sent you a message with video on the bearing..
     
  13. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    The lock plate was originally black coated,not painted and the dust cover was originally phosphate or parkerized. I’ve seen the dust covers either way.
     
    tubecatgs likes this.

Share This Page