just for my reference, wha is the choke setting for my carb? would be nice to have it for future use.had another possibility, would that efe valve cause this? it moves freely
No such thing, set it to what works best for your climate. The spring may lose tension, that's why there is an adjustment. EFE valve, like a heat riser right? Which car are we talking about? It warms the bottom of the intake manifold, like an exhaust crossover. If it isn't doing that, it can cause problems with cold operation, especially with a carb with stock jetting.
1975 le sabre, 350 4bbl. mine is vacuum operated. if it's bad, would it be ok with out it until i found another?
Yes, but it should be easier just to check it. It should close with the engine cold. Check to see if there is vacuum present, and whether the vacuum diaphram that operates it works.
ok will check things out,(if i want to brave single digit temps in my garage) and let ya know. thanks for the answers!!
forgot something... i did notice that the port on the vacuum switch that supplies the efe valve is blocked. is not possible to unblock it without breaking off the nipple. is there another source of ported vacuum i could tap into?
No, that is a thermovacuum switch. It regulates vacuum to the EFE valve by coolant temperature. Replace the thermovacuum switch. See if your parts store stocks it, if not try GM
my mistake, it was not blocked,was dark in the garage. took that rear pulloff to test it with an outside source of vacuum,will not hold at all. comes right back out.so good thing i have a new one to put on!! any other adjustments should i do ,besides going a notch richer on the choke?
Nope, try that first, see if it makes a difference. As long as your air cleaner door is working correctly, that should do it. Is the EFE valve closing when the engine is cold?
yes,it is, checked that first(despite cold fingers) is closed when cold, and freely moves. will see what it does when i drive it next.how long,after the engine is running does it open? o No: where in the world would i find another if it's bad? o No: i want to keep it there, to preserve the originality of the car
Couldn't tell you, you should have a 75 Buick chassis manual. That would answer all your questions. Theres one on E-bay for 29.00 here: http://stores.ebay.ca/Ken-McGee-Aut...1QQdptZ0QQpZ6QQsclZallQQsotimedisplayZ2QQtZkm http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7929975372&category=6761
Hey Hotrod, put your first name in your signature, I feel like I'm talking to a cartoon character(your avatar) :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: Sorry Jeff, I liked the avatar, I meant put your name in your signature where you have your cars :TU:
ok,it's back! i couldn't budge the choke spring housing,so will have to let it be for now.could a linkage adjustment be used instead? if my spring is weak,might see if napa might have new ones
There are several things to consider here. One is that the carb is likely metered correctly if it was the original. The lack of heat can cause the problems you are encountering. Question: does the engine idle properly right after starting? If not, the issue becomes one of idle speed and choke pull-off adjustment. Slight hesitations right after start up can be cured by adjusting the pull-off slightly richer. Look at the linkage carefully. The '75 carb may have a bendable linkage or a screw adjustment. Make SLIGHT adjustments, then evaluate the following morning. If the engine develops hestiations or surging during warm up, but not right after starting, the problem is the result of the choke opening too fast. Note; after getting the choke properly adjusted, you may find that the idle speeds cold may be adjusted lower. The factory used idle speed to compensate for lean mixtures for emissions standards. If there is any question regarding the condition of the pull-off diaphragm, buy a new one before attempting adjustments. Also, be sure you are adjusting the primary pull off, the one connected directly connected to vacuum. The secondary unit (if used), will not be connected to vacuum directly. There will be some sort of control in between the vacuum and the diaphragm. If two pull-offs are used, there will be a control for the secondary unit.
There's usually 3 screws that you have to loosen. On some originals it's rivets. The replacement choke coils come with screws, and you drill the rivets out. Which do you have?
Maybe a little gumout, and let it soak in, then tap it lightly with a small wrench. probably just carboned up. It's plastic. You can get new ones if you break it. Or try Rays suggestions. If the primary pull off has a screw adjustment, try that.
