Suspension Newb Installing Control Arms

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by StKing, Nov 12, 2021.

  1. StKing

    StKing Well-Known Member

    Hello everyone,

    I purchased a set of Speedway Tubular control arms. Doing more research on other options the arms from speedway don't seem like a good product but I'm here now and I was hoping to get some guidance.

    1st:
    Are these bolts installed in the right direction?
    What is the torque setting?
    How much grease should I have put in the white spacer bushings?
    Do I need to use the silver grease fittings and squeeze grease in there?

    IMG_3293.jpg

    2nd:
    I can't for the life of me get this side in place to put the bolt in. I was thinking about using a jack under the arm and hopefully push it into place but I think the arm will just pivot and no pressure will be applied. Does anyone have any tips, tricks or ideas??
    IMG_3294.jpg
     
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  2. jaye

    jaye Well-Known Member

    You may have to open that side up a little, then use a rubber mallet to tap it into position. I used the white grease that came with mine for urethane bushings. I also installed Moog ball joints in the place of the ones that came with the control arms
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2021
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  3. StKing

    StKing Well-Known Member

    Any suggestions on how to "open it up"? Replacing with Moog I heard is the way to go. Do the lower joints press in, or could you tell me how do I swap them out?
     
  4. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

    60 ft lbs is plenty for these style arm/bushings.
    You do not want them to bind, and they use nylock nuts, so they are not backing off.

    Try removing the bolt and see if two much thinner bolts will allow you to get it in place.

    Is the bushing on the left separated a bit? (if you greased it prior to installation, you may have expanded things. Might need to use cardboard on each side of that bushing in a vise and pull the zerk fitting to press it all back together.

    And you may have to try swinging the arm up and down while also moving against the other two axis to find the "sweet spot" for lining things up. And even use thinner bolts to see if that helps give you a little more "wiggle room".

    It is hard to explain, but if you move the arm in every direction possible, you should see where thigs get closer, and what makes them get farther from aligning the holes.
     
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  5. jaye

    jaye Well-Known Member

    The ball joints press in/out
     
  6. 69 GS 400

    69 GS 400 Well-Known Member

    I would say if it does need to be spread, use a piece of redi rod or extra long bolt with nuts and washers on the inside of the mounting bracket and slowly crank the nuts in opposing directions to widen the inside measurement of the bracket.
     
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  7. StKing

    StKing Well-Known Member

    Smart idea, I'll probably add a little heat to help the metal along.
     
  8. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    I did this several years ago. The bolts look good. I assume you got a matching set of uppers?

    Four things:

    1) Get you some 90° grease fittings because they are nearly impossible to get to when in the normal position.

    2) Pull out those ball joints and put some good ones in. I had a lower snap the bolt off, the cotter pin sheared off, still the piece in the through hole.

    3) If you want even better handling beyond the +5° caster those arms are purported to add, get some ProForged tall upper ball joints. They are longer and will improve camber gain for better tire contact in turns.

    4) Don't use stock alignment specs. They are terrible for radials and better suspension. Use something like +5° caster, -0.5° camber and 1/16" toe in.
     
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  9. StKing

    StKing Well-Known Member

    Awesome. Thanks for the advice. Ordered new 90 degree fittings.

    I got Moog joints to replace them but I didn't get longer uppers... guess I'll need to reorder. Are these the ones?

    https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Prof...katalrGwqFHCIcjmgeivsTzVMmIdYk2hoCPUoQAvD_BwE


    I'm using ats spindles for c6 z06 brakes if that matters.

    View recent photos.jpg
     
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  10. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

  11. StKing

    StKing Well-Known Member

    That's good news. Glad I uploaded the picture. Again really appreciate your help.

    The lower joint threads weren't coming through all the way at first but I jacked up the control arm and let it sit for a while and it looks like I have pretty good clearance now.

    IMG_3361.jpg IMG_3360.jpg IMG_3359.jpg
     
  12. Bygblok

    Bygblok Well-Known Member

    For the guys who are installing arms and having an issue with the arms not fitting in the mounting ears, here’s a picture of the simple piece I made from all thread, a couple of washers and nuts to spread the ears slightly to ease the install. Some couldn’t get the visual in their head……
     

    Attached Files:

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  13. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    That's a good solution.

    I think one of mine were a little tight. I just used my largest adjustable wrench cranked down tight and put a little leverage on it. It pulled right back over when I put the bolt and nut tightened up.
     
  14. StKing

    StKing Well-Known Member

    2F750233-D085-4CEE-BC5D-DEEFD5167A8B.jpeg F0963FC5-9290-49CB-A6AC-78375A155E92.jpeg C840C429-0622-4E69-AA7E-545855E514E3.jpeg
    Man, that trick saved me hours of frustration. Super easy this way. It went back in line once I tightened everything up
     
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