What if you don’t use a controller of any kind,just a toggle switch for high stall? Car is mostly driven in town and a rare trip on the open road.
An electronic controller will never get tired of working for you, even when you are distracted by other things. But a manual switch can accomplish the same, if you work hard enough at it. In some installations a 3 way switch is used, two for manual control and one for automatic. There are no switches in my cars. With you doing nothing extra, it is pretty cool when passengers ask how many gears the car has, or how it is so smooth. Bruce Roe
That's what I used to use. It was so easy, mounted to the steering column. High stall as you approach a stoplight, low stall as you pull away.
https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/controlling-a-switch-pitch.356444/#post-3054026 https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?t...es-electronic-controller.190075/#post-1512199
My usual response is get your trans working well, understand what it does. Then email me for information about a controller at bcroe@juno.com
x2 on Bruce's controllers. I run one in my 65 and its great, especially love the added element of low vacuum trigger..
I had a micro switch activated by the brake pedal and also a toggle switch on the dash. Always high stall when brake depressed and manual control anytime with the toggle (or the brake pedal).
My Son has added an overdrive unit to his switch pitch T400. Now he has more switches to connect for the OD operation. He has a 4,000 stall SP converter that works really well and he just changed to 3:90 gears. Should be fun to drive when he get it all back together.
Just an update. Got trans in and shifting. I wired the torque converter switch through a roll control switch. I can hear it clicking when power is applied but there’s no change in the way it idles. I’m not able to get up on the converter at all. Am I missing something? Any advice is appreciated.
There are 2 solenoids, one for the SP and one for the kick down. The solenoid you hear may not be the SP. You may be hooked up to the wrong spade. Traditionally, the horizontal spade is the SP, and the vertical one is the kick down, but that can be reversed on the inside of the case connector. Try reversing them. 4000? Whose SP converter is it? Hope it isn't a PAE.
Not sure about the converter. I bought it from a member here. I think he said it was a 1800/3800. I really need to check that out. I hooked the wire to the horizontal spade. Tomorrow I’ll try the other spade. Things will be a lot cooler
You might have luck getting under the trans pan and energizing the solenoid and see if you can tell which is "clicking". The stator solenoid on back of the pump sounds a bit different (not as pronounced) than the detent solenoid since it is just on the other side of the terminal connector on the driver side of the transmission and just above the pan. Placing a piece of vacuum hose as a "stethoscope" in that area.
Thanks guys. I’m going to see if I can find a schematic. Tomorrow I’ll have a helper to run the switch in the interior while I listen underneath
The solenoid mounted on the pump body must work, and there is a hydraulic piston amplifier there too. I test these with air before assembly, see below. There are pictures of linkage, various SWP control methods, parts, and my SWP controller with its flow diagram on my PHOTOBUCKET. Click on albums SWITCH PTICH TRANSMISSIONS, and BUILD A SWITCH PITCH TRANSMISSION. https://app.photobucket.com/u/bcroe click on an Album click on a picture to enlarge + description BRUCE ROE bcroe@juno.com
