TH350 kickdown cable - carb mounted question

All:

In a separate thread detailing my TH350 kickdown cable challenges, it was suggested I move from the pedal mount style to a carb based style cable.

I purchased Lokar's throttle and carb mounted kickdown cables as well as the associated Lokar bracket. I made my way through the install when I noticed there is nothing on my newly built Qjet to accommodate the forward motion of the kickdown when the accelerator is depressed. Now I am depressed.

I called Lokar and they asked me if my carb was from a 4 speed car and I said dunno as it was a core from a board member/builder's inventory. I thought it was unlikely.

Now that I am back to square one(ish) regarding the kickdown cable solution, was I dumb to assume the average Qjet would have a spot on the throttle arm for the kickdown cable to properly mount to?

It seems I can have a new carb done with a different throttle arm which would suck or go back to pursuing the pedal based kickdown cable for the 73 TH350 I have in my GS. The card based set-up seems better IMO.

What are my options?

 

I have the same issue with my 340-2bbl TH350 setup in my 67' vert. The previous owner ditched the 2 speed.

I didn't want to fiddle with some sort of weird bell crank setup to try to get the kickdown to work (if it would even be possible).

I went to the junkyard and pulled a couple 2bbl throttle shafts. One out of a 69 or 70 Skylark with a 350/350 and the other from a mid 70's Skylark.
These shafts have more "attachment arms" than the simple 2bbl on my car currently.

I also bought a 1/2" phenolic spacer, since my current carb mounts directly to the manifold and I need a little more elevation so the kickdown linkage clears the manifold during its rotation.


I haven't had a chance to hook everything up yet.

 

late 70s Buick 350 carbs have a throttle arm identical to yours except they have the lower part that you need for the detent cable.

grind the mushroomed stop off your current throttle arm, pull the arm off the shaft and replace the arm with one from a late 70s Buick 350 carb. Weld the new arm onto the throttle shaft or drill the shaft and put a threaded retaining screw on.

 

Ken:

Thanks for your reply.

Is this an example of the arm I am looking for?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380946715792?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&fromMakeTrack=true

 

yes thats the one.

EDIT:
Note that in adding the lower arm to the throttle arm, you may need to run about .75" spacer between carb and intake to avoid contact.

This will screw up your throttle cable bracket alignment unless you compensate with a spacer or switch to a carb mounted bracket like the one TCI makes.

 

Thanks Ken.

The Lokar bracket I am using is attached with the rear carb bolt. I think if I use the spacer you mention, the bracket with be lifted equally keeping the original alignment.

Are spacers a bad idea? i.e do they tend to leak or screw up the tune/performance of the carb? My car is basically a stock 73 350 with a TA 212 cam.

My goal is to have a reliable car, not the fastest car on the block.

 

no, spacers arent a problem unless you buy a crappy hollow one. Get a solid phenolic or aluminum one.

If you keep the spacer to a minimum you can avoid air cleaner - hood clearance issues.

When I ran the TV arm I used a half inch spacer and a thick intake gasket.

 

Am I missing something here? Why not just get the correct 70 Buick TH350 detent cable, which goes from the trans to the gas pedal? Shouldn't be a problem to source. Seems like this is the simplest solution, rather than monkey-farting around with all that mismatched stuff. o No:

 

The trans was born behind a 350 2bl with carb mounted kickdown and has no internal return spring for the cable . I am not certain if I can add the spring in order to use the pedal-mounted 70 style cable.

I bought a Lokar Kit hoping that would do the trick which it did not due to the throttle arm my carb has. I thought by swapping in a new throttle arm I can use the Lokar kit I have 80% installed. I didn't realize the later arm will not work with the early manifold due to interference.

I am trying to weigh all options to pick the best solution. I do like the carb mount design better.

 

Well, I guess I forgot all about how the 350 2bbl detent cable was. Carry on!

 

if you go to any wrecking yard pull the pan off a 350 . all it is a clip you pull off with pliers, grab the clip and all the associated pieces and put er in your pocket, find a couple carbs and grab a couple different shafts so you have some variety . put those in your pocket. even grab a few cable brackets too. every thing should fit in your pockets, wear overalls or bagy sweat pants over your pants, keep your self clean and you wont show any bulges in your pockets. But dont worry they wont pat you down.

 

Recommending stealing parts is pretty classless.

 

old thread, but, I saw on the Chicagoland board you needed a carb. Not sure if this helps....but, let me know if it does.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371197442850?ssPageName=STRK:MEUNSOLD:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1560.l2649
Troy

 

Hi Larry:

I have been away from the board lately. I took the pan off the 70 transmission laying on the floor of the garage. There is a piston/plunger that resets the kickdown cable that I'll have to address in the installed, troubled transmission.

Thanks everyone for your help.

 

Not using the kick down cable has no effect anyplace on "normal" transmission operation. I ran a 65 Nova SS for nearly a decade without the cable hooked up, and don't have the kick-down on my TH400 operational in the Ventura now for over 25 years. It is not needed, or wanted, as I prefer to choose when my transmission seeks a lower gear manually, as it makes enough power to get you into plenty of trouble without downshifting, at any speed or in any gear. The only thing the kick down feature does, is give you forced downshifts into 1st or second gear at heavy/WOT throttle openings. For all "normal" driving, it is NOT a player anyplace, just say-in.....Cliff

 

Larry, I specific pointed out that not using the kick-down feature will have no impact in the "normal" driving range. To get any TH350 or TH400 to provide specific WOT upshifts you are going to have to go into the VB and governor anyhow 99.9 percent of the time anyhow, with or without the kick-down feature operational. Not using the kick-down feature as no negative impact on transmission function, and for a set-up with big power it's needed even less. Unlike the later 200-4R and 700/4L60 units, leaving off the TV cable is certain and quick death for the transmission.....FWIW......Cliff

 

Kick-down or not the transmission either TH350 or TH400 will have full automatic upshifts and nothing will wear out or break prematurely from not using this feature. For the TH400 specifically, you MUST modify the 1-2 shift valve and plug the bleed hole in the VB for full control for manual upshifts, or it will still shift out of 1st on the governor even if the selector is left in the "L" position. For all "high performance" TH400's we build here, we do this mod, and leave it up to the owner whether or not they want to use the kick-down feature (solenoid). There are no negatives from not using it and mine has been set up that way for nearly 30 years. I prefer to manually shift when drag racing, as I typically short shift for all runs unless I find the need to "buzz" the engine a little harder and get to the finish line first, to keep my opponent from having the opportunity to let off or tap the brakes. As it relates to this post, I'm just pointing out that it's not a deal breaker if the cable isn't hooked up, the trans will not fail, and function the same for all "normal" driving scenarios. It will NOT have forced downshifts at WOT, so would have to be manually shifted if/when the operator needs a lower gear for making a pass, climbing a steep grade, or showing off some, etc......Cliff