Theres a new sheriff in town

Discussion in 'Pro-Touring' started by turbohawk87, Apr 26, 2013.

  1. turbohawk87

    turbohawk87 turbohawk87

    IMG_0481.jpg IMG_0480.jpg IMG_0482.jpg IMG_0483.jpg IMG_0484.jpg you can just call me JR!wilwood brakes,yeah those are the solenoids for open dumps on a stainless 3" pypes system,QA1 COIL OVERS, and the baddest bfg's I can stuff underneath him,my 70 stage 1 is going to be ready to bring IT!! my lil hawk is my driver ,the rest is TOP SECRET.......JR
     
  2. Nothingface5384

    Nothingface5384 Detail To Oil - Car Care

    nice!

    i see you don't have spherical ends :-(

    add a johnny-joint rear bushing kit.
    I think this kit was mainly made for old style bushing non spherical arms
    you can get it from SC&C or perhaps any currie vendor of choice
     
  3. Stg1Regal

    Stg1Regal Yep Traction Issues!:)

    I think nothingface5384 nailed it.. "articulation" is whats needed for thst rear suspension to work its best.r
     
  4. nekkidhillbilly

    nekkidhillbilly jeffreyrigged youtube channel owner

    as long as he keeps rubber bushings in the top arms to keep from binding he should be fine. most people dont find a huge improvement with the spherical arms over the boxed units with the proper bushing set up.
     
  5. Nothingface5384

    Nothingface5384 Detail To Oil - Car Care

    yes..ideally he can run rubber/poly or delum in lower control arms if he keeps the bushings in axle ears rubber, but may as well install the johnny-joint bushings in the top axle ears to make the most out of our triangulated/converging rear suspension!
    but if he just goes rubber in upper ears, it'll still bind to an extent, just wont be harsh like if he had poly inthem
     
  6. Stg1Regal

    Stg1Regal Yep Traction Issues!:)

    nekkidhillbilly

    Speaking of rubber bushings in those top top trailing arms... I spoke with Marcus from SC&C awhile back, he mentioned if trying to do the rear suspension on a budget per-sey, to leave those top arms rubber, and do what ever lowers you want, again leaning towards "articulation" , but go with a Fays-2 Watts Link, this now makes those upper arms only hold the axle on and keeps it from going foward and aft, but also be compliant enough to not bind.

    Food for thought..:Brow:
     
  7. Nothingface5384

    Nothingface5384 Detail To Oil - Car Care

    I agree with firs statement, the 2nd not so much, the sole purpose of a watts is to keep your axle centered..not needed on a converging 4 link like ours, bu if someone would insist anyways. You need to swap to a nova tank
     
  8. boosted6

    boosted6 Going fast with class!

    Another shameless sales plug from Marcus.....LOL I happen to have seen first hand what a GOOD articulation rear set up does and how it performs without ADDING more products to the suspension.... The DSE upper & lower control arms have a swivel joint in them which "Truly" makes your rear suspension articulate properly without adding more and more crap to it.... Ask me how I know because they purposely done a test before my boxed lowers and uppers were taken off and once the new DSE uppers and lowers were installed.... Night & Day comparison! I was literally shocked....
     
  9. Nothingface5384

    Nothingface5384 Detail To Oil - Car Care

    You have to agree on one thing, Mark probably is the best suspension guru on the net..but yeah, I have no idea why he sells the fay2 watts link for an A and G-body..it serves no purpose on a triangulated 4 link system..if this were aleafsprung setup, 3link,torque arm or 4link paralleled system it would do its job

    our arms itself already acts as a watts link.

    PS i sold my edelbrock uppers/billet currutrac lowers infavor of DSE also.. just didnt care for their front arm/spindle packege
     
  10. turbohawk87

    turbohawk87 turbohawk87

    HHHHHHHHHHHMMMMMMMMMMMMM,much food for thinking, I plan on doing coil over's in the rear also,and wildwood rear discs, the alston 6 point is x braced to the shock tower's thru the back seat, only one seat needed, the drivers, plan on putting some tunes back there, optima battery in trunk, BG FUEL system and sump in the rear, glass hood, aluminum top half,STAGE BLANK HEADS (ya I know but I am not giving all my stuff up!):grin:650 ft lbs of torque on the DYNO,poly's in the moser 3.89 ,4" quartermaster chrome moly driveshaft, I think I will just stick with hotchkis's set up, I think they know what's up ...the bad boy should be balanced pretty good, beside's the driver know's how to RACE!!!!! 463 3.jpg AND YA I AM A REDNECK:blast::blast:
     
  11. Nothingface5384

    Nothingface5384 Detail To Oil - Car Care

    rear coilover mounting kit I seen that ive like is made my DSE for 1100 or possibly less through Boosted6 Chassisworks version is 1059 at SC&C
     
  12. mild2wild

    mild2wild Well-Known Member

    Speed Tech also has articulating rear trailing arms and coilover kit.
     
  13. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    If you stay with all poly in the rear you will get to know this phenomenon: snap oversteer Everybody but Hotchkiss has gone to spherical bushings in their top of the line control arms. Look at the top people in the Optima challenge they do not use Hotchkiss.
     
  14. turbohawk87

    turbohawk87 turbohawk87

    okay ,can everybody agree on something sphrical arms? aluminum adjustable pinion angle,? whats the advantage? ,are they In the upper control arm's or the rear end?,ALL the control arm's are all poly now ,did basic set up in 72 gs 455 conv,handles like a slot car,this should be be a g- force rocket ,rubber bushing's?HUH??????:confused:
     
  15. BirdDog

    BirdDog Well-Known Member

  16. boosted6

    boosted6 Going fast with class!

    I refuse to knock Marcus or discredit him in any way like some have towards me but I simply don't agree!
     

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