top installation myself?

Discussion in 'The ragtop shop' started by SarahDM, Feb 17, 2005.

  1. SarahDM

    SarahDM Member

    My 69 Skylark needs a new top & I was just quoted $700 for the top installed...this is higher than I expected. I had a glass rear window & want that again. I checked out OPGI, tops are about $350. Is $300+ legit for labor (here in central VA)? Is it a 6 hour job for a pro?
    Can I do this myself? I'm willing, just need some encouragement. :) sdm
     
  2. Duane

    Duane Member

    Sarah,
    I helped install a top once, and would never do it again, and I was in the upholstery business. It requires special tools/staple guns etc.
    I will gladly pay to have new tops put on my 2 convertibles, when the time comes to do them.

    $700 for an installed top is cheap, around here they charge over $1000
    Duane
     
  3. UTAH GS

    UTAH GS Well-Known Member

    Top install

    I agree with Duane...700.00 is cheap. Did that include the pads and liner?

    You always need them! If so jump on it before he changes his mind.

    Mark
     
  4. slomo

    slomo MY NAME IS JOE

    Howdy, I Did 2- tops 1- on a rambler and 1- on a olds both worked fine closed well too, also kept the water out But never looked professional. I think you have to pay if you want that pressed and starched look.
     
  5. Murphy

    Murphy Just Getting Started

    I installed 1 on my 68 last winter. When I finally got it on, I swore I would never do it again. It is very long tediuos (spelling?) work getting it on right. It's still not perfect, but it's on there and keeps me dry. I did learn a lot about it, and if I ever do another it should go easier.
    Dan
     
  6. SarahDM

    SarahDM Member

    Thanks guys, I'll leave it to the pros. They did say it included everything but the rubber.
    Dreaming of the warm sunny weather...
     
  7. Russ Waters

    Russ Waters Well-Known Member

    I have to give my 2 cents worth here. I'd never done a top replacement before, but decided to do it. It came out like I wanted so there was some additional satisfaction for me.
    I won't get too technical but if you have some questions I'd be glad to answer them.
    My purchase consisted of a new top and rear glass from Year One ( top made by Kee), pads, tack strip material, stainless steel staples (Lowes), a can of satin black spray paint for the frame, and a set of ratcheting combination wrenches. (must have)
    I re-used my rear liner, rain gutter and cables. If yours are OK you can, too.
    I had a wrinkle or two around the rear corner areas at first, but after a few days in the sun, the vinyl tightened up fine. I am happy with it.

    Russ Waters
    1970 Skylark Custom Convertible 455/TH-350
     
  8. 70 Skylark Conv

    70 Skylark Conv Well-Known Member

    Did my own and it was the biggest PITA that I have ever encountered.

    Getting the bow back in place a million times was a big pain. Also, getting the back window in just the right position in reference to the top. Also, the wrinkle problem....Also, also, also.....After having to pull out staples, restaple several different times to get it right. Messing with the bow....

    Soooo, I will NEVER do another top again. :af:

    Think you made the right decision!!! :beer

    PS I've got 3 convertibles!!! :spank: :shock:
     
  9. damonwil

    damonwil Well-Known Member

    I did mine myself. It nearly killed me, literally. I was standing in the center of the car between the header bow and the second bow I think with the top sort of in the air. I thought it wouldn't budge becasue it was so rusty but it started moving back into the well and I almost found out why they call them scissor tops the hard way. I took it to a trimmer to glue the front and sides but he said it was off a bit. Guess what, I took it off and did it again the right way. He had twenty years experience and stlill had to fight with it.
     
  10. 71Stage1Conv4sp

    71Stage1Conv4sp Well-Known Member

    I made my decision when I took the old one out....there is no F!@#$ way I am putting it back in. Thankfully, I do not have to do this for at least two years.

    Len
     
  11. 70 Skylark Conv

    70 Skylark Conv Well-Known Member

    Taking it off is the FUN part!!! :laugh:
     
  12. Russ Waters

    Russ Waters Well-Known Member

    It compares to bodywork, I guess. During my 6 year restoration, I actually enjoyed doing a lot of the hard work and tough tasks, but no way would I attempt to sand a car smooth again.
    As far as the top installation, there is one part that could chase some persons away. I was limber enough to crawl into the trunk, lay on my back, and do some necessary work. ( Removing/installing the rain gutter) My best tool were the ratcheting combo wrenches needed to remove the bolts on each side of the top frame. That made the job 45 seconds. With a regular wrench it could take 30 minutes and cause a lot of frustration.
    When I bought the car ( not running) the top was in bad shape, and torn to the point where I didn't really need it as a point of reference. I took my time, had the warm sun to help me stretch the material, and got it done.
    Paying 750.00 labor here (near ATL) was not an option for me. If you want to try it, go for it!

    Russ Waters
    1970 Skylark Custom Convertible 455
     
  13. damonwil

    damonwil Well-Known Member

    All you have to do is one to be an expert. Because, you will have figured out most of the shortcuts for the next one.
     
  14. 70 Skylark Conv

    70 Skylark Conv Well-Known Member

    Well, my top installation LOOKS good, but found out this weekend the staples have come undone on the back bar where you staple the window and the trim piece on to.

    Looks like the fun begins all over again!!! :rant: :rant: :rant:

    I have no one to blame but myself. :af:
     
  15. slomo

    slomo MY NAME IS JOE

    Howdy, I think they should be stainless steel staples so they wont rust.
     
  16. Murphy

    Murphy Just Getting Started

    That's what I used on mine. The old ones were very rusty, so I figured it couldn't hurt to use stainless steel.
    Dan :3gears:
     
  17. 70 Skylark Conv

    70 Skylark Conv Well-Known Member

    I used stainless, but couldn't find a length that I thought was long enough. That's probably why that back rail didn't stay.
     
  18. damonwil

    damonwil Well-Known Member

    There is a special height measurement for that rear bow before you staple it. Also after you staple it you should lift and lower the top. The back window should be taught(A little tighter than sagging)not "super tight" when top is in the closed positon. If it is not set right it will always rip the staples out or sag. Also, don't be shy with the staples. There are areas that should be double or triple stapled regardless of what a top manual says. The trimmer taught me that trick.
     
  19. 70 Skylark Conv

    70 Skylark Conv Well-Known Member

    My window stayed stapled, but top under the trim piece came unstapled. Probably because I used too many staples on the window. :rant:

    There's probably 100 pounds of staples in my top! :laugh:
     
  20. damonwil

    damonwil Well-Known Member

    Yeah. Your rear trim stick. You don't have to use that many on the window because you're going to come back and staple most those areas(except the window area) again with top over the window material. The trimmer pulled the rear of top material very tight and stapled at different angles around the curve. Didn't use a ton of staples just a few more than the manual states and at dfferent angles to get the look just right. He said todays convertibles are a snap to work on compared to the old stuff. If you notice, new cars have plastic molding around the rear of the top. Take that molding off and the trim stick is right there.
     

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