Plugs look better except #2 cylinder seems blacker. Also #2 has 160psi compression compared to others at 175-180. Di did a lot of accelerating and engine breaking last night. Hopefully oil consumption lessens soon.
Weather was nice this weekend so took a ride to see how the rebuilt tach and modified trans shift govenor worked. Had to sit on cushions because seat is out for recovery. Tach might be 5% different than my aftermarket one under the dash so I'll try to borrow a digital one to see if it is spot on. Trans now shifts from 1-2 about 4000 at wot and 2-3 at 4500. Think i should I grind more off the weights or look for weaker springs?
My seat should be finished and reinstalled in a week or two. I did a few more pulls to try to burn more carbon out. Response seems to be getting better but there is some slight detonation after each shift when rpms drop. I adjusted curve to about 12* initial, 32-34* all in by 2700. 10-12* added with vacuum advance. I still have some race gas mixed in. Performance really seems to change negatively if I retard distributor to get rid of that detonation. I realize that the detonation has to be eliminated...... My compression should be under 10-1 with the silvolite pistons. I really don't want to add race gas every single fill up. I have had the mallory unilite conversion in my cars for decades..... Any suggestions?
I could be wrong however I think you have a thin layer of carbon on the pistons and heads and that carbon is causing the pinging you hear. I would try some seafoam treatments and try to clean things up.
Correct! A LOT of carbon still in the chambers. I have used the seafoam and it is getting better but I'm a bit impatient .....maybe I'll try pouring another can down the fuel tank.
Yes use some in the fuel it will help as well. Lots of spirited driving and the sea foam will clean things up. The only other option is taking it apart to clean things but I know that’s not a pleasant thought. the best method I’ve found with the sea foam is getting the car fully warmed up, at idle spray a whole can of the spray version down the carb. Then shut it off, leave it overnight and in the morning take it for a drive and burn it clean. The can says leave for 20 min but overnight works well to get those caked on deposits loosened up. Also if you use a water spraying bottle you can mist water into the carb and it will steam clean the insides of the engine.
Yes. I used a paint sprayer connected to my air compressor and sprayer a pint of water down the carb when hot.
You can also use a squirt bottle filled with water, bring the rpm up a bit and spritz the water down the carb, it turns to steam and cleans well. Just don’t spray the garden hose down there
Try putting some richer secondary metering rods (smaller diameter tips) in....takes 1 minute....if you have some....
Try 10 degrees initial and slow your mechanical advance curve to all in @ 3000 RPM. Are you using ported or manifold vacuum advance?
Played a bit after work today with tuning. I borrowed a gtech to measure 1/4 times. About 15.5 pretty consistently. Then I adjusted distributor with stiffer springs. 9* initial and 30* all in at 3000rpm instead of 2500rpm. Tested again and did 15.3 and no audible detonation even with vacuum advance connected. Seems like it isn't getting enough fuel at low rpms. I can feel it take off once it gets rolling. I know it can do better because a few months ago it was lighting the tires without even trying then the next day it went back to this. I also turned apt carb screw in another half turn. I was hoping for better with my compression and cam modifications. Car ran 15.5 at the strip in the 90s with 100k miles on the engine. Probably better conditions at the strip though. Suggestions?
Total timing should be 32-34. Try 12 initial. Have you tried setting idle mixture with a vacuum gauge? Highest steady reading, go back and forth a few times.
Ok i will try more advance after I have another test run with straight Premium gas. Im hoping it won't ping on premium. Idles very smoothly but i haven't adjusted idle screws in a while so I'll put that on the list. Thanks!
My primary metering rods are 44b new from Cliff with the rebuild. I could order different ones or keep turning in apt screw? It just doesn't seem to have quite the same amount of power at low rpms like it did.
